View source for Kebaya

{{short description|Southeast Asian traditional clothing}}
{{Infobox clothing type
| name          = Kebaya
| image_file    = GKR Hayu 2.jpg
| image_size    = 220px
| caption       = [[Javanese culture|Javanese]] kebaya is a sheer blouse worn over [[batik]] ''[[kemben]]'', as shown here worn by [[Princess Hayu]] of [[Yogyakarta Sultanate|Yogyakarta]].
| type          = Traditional upper garment
| material      = 
| location      = [[Maritime Southeast Asia]] ([[Majapahit]] (modern-day [[Java]], [[Indonesia]])<ref name ="Steele">{{Cite book|last=Steele|first=Valerie|editor=Steele Valerie|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zqkYAAAAIAAJ&q=Kebaya+Java|title=Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion|date=2005|publisher=Charles Scribner's Sons|isbn=978-0-684-31395-5|language=en}}</ref><ref name ="Fashion-History">{{Cite book|last1=Welters|first1=Linda|last2=Lillethun|first2=Abby| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ki48DwAAQBAJ&q=history+of+kebaya&pg=PT145|title=Fashion History: A Global View|date=2018-02-08|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing|isbn=978-1-4742-5365-9|language=en}}</ref><ref name = "Annette"/><ref name ="Phromsuthirak"/> or [[Malacca Sultanate|Malacca]] (modern-day [[Malaysia]])<ref name = "Annette">{{cite book|editor=Annette Lynch-Mitchell D. Strauss|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tiEvBQAAQBAJ&q=kebaya&pg=PA171|title=Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia| date=2014-10-30|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9780759121508|language=en}}</ref><ref name ="Phromsuthirak">{{Cite book|last1=Phromsuthirak|first1=Maneepin|first2=Maenmas|last2=Chavalit| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=CfyBAAAAMAAJ&q=kebaya|title=Costumes in ASEAN Volume 1, Part 1 of ASEAN studies publication series|date=2000| publisher=National ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information of Thailand|isbn=9789747102833|language=en}}</ref><ref name ="Setiawan">{{Cite book|last=Setiawan|first=Ferry| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=px2_IjgMCIMC&q=sejarah+kebaya|title=50 Galeri Kebaya Eksotik Nan Cantik|date=2009|publisher=Niaga Swadaya| isbn=9789793927909|language=id}}</ref><ref name = "Atelier">{{cite book| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9uXbAAAAMAAJ&q=portuguese+kebaya|title=World Eco-Fiber & Textile (W.E.F.T) Forum 2003, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia| date=2002-09-19|publisher=Atelier|language=en}}</ref><ref name="Jill-Forshee">{{cite book|last=Forshee|first=Jill| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=y0xVkgXZOfUC|title=Culture and Customs of Indonesia| date=2006|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313333392|language=en}}</ref><ref name="Haziyah"/>)
| manufacturer  = [[Ethnic groups in Indonesia|Indonesians]] (inc. [[Javanese people|Javanese]]) and [[Malay people|Malay]]
| url           =  
}}
{{Infobox intangible heritage
| Image       = 
| Caption     = 
| ICH         = Kebaya: knowledge, skills, traditions and practices
| Countries   = Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand
| Criteria    =
| ID          = 02090
| Region      = APA
| Year        = 2024
| Session     = 19th
| List        = Representative
}}

A '''kebaya'''{{refn|group=n|[[Dutch language|Dutch]] and older [[Indonesian orthography]]: kebaja; [[Javanese script|Javanese]]: ꦏꦼꦧꦪ; [[Jawi alphabet|Jawi]]: کباي; [[Pegon script|Pegon]]: كٓبَايَا}} is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in [[Southeast Asia]], notably in [[Brunei]],<ref name="MuziumBrunei"/> [[Indonesia]],<ref name="LIPI-Kebaya">{{Cite web|date=3 November 2020|title=Kebaya: Identitas Nasional Indonesia|url=https://pmb.lipi.go.id/kebaya-identitas-nasional-indonesia/|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210212135859/https://pmb.lipi.go.id/kebaya-identitas-nasional-indonesia/|archive-date=12 February 2021|access-date=|website=Research Center for Society and Culture, Indonesian Institute of Science (LIPI)|language=id}}</ref> [[Malaysia]],<ref name="Haziyah"/> [[Singapore]],<ref name ="Koh"/> and [[Southern Thailand]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=2018|title=CHINESE HERITAGE ON THE WEST COAST OF SOUTHERN THAILAND: A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO IDENTIFICATION AND CONSERVATION|url=http://ithesis-ir.su.ac.th/dspace/bitstream/123456789/2178/1/56056961.pdf|access-date=29 November 2022|website=Graduate School, Silpakorn University|language=}}</ref> 

Kebaya is an upper garment opened at the front that is traditionally made from lightweight fabrics such as [[brocade]], [[cotton]], [[gauze]], [[lace]], or [[voile]] and sometimes adorned with embroidery. The front is secured with either buttons, pins, or brooches. The lower garment for the outfit is known as [[sarong]], ''[[kemben]]'' or ''kain'', a long piece of cloth wrapped and tucked around the waist or under the armpits, either made out of [[batik]], [[ikat]], ''[[songket]]'' or ''[[tenun]]''.{{refn|group=n| Tenun means woven fabrics, this includes ''tenun'' Bugis, ''tenun lurik'' and ''tenun'' Pahang}}

Kebaya has become a Southeast Asian fashion icon, with many Southeast Asian flag carrier airlines, including [[Singapore Airlines]], [[Malaysia Airlines]], [[Royal Brunei Airlines]], and [[Garuda Indonesia]] adopting the traditional clothing as the uniforms for their female flight attendants.<ref name ="The Origin of the Kebaya">{{cite web |url=https://www.ourdaily.co/assets/blt53f2336bf71319a7/the-origin-of-the-kebaya-and-how-it-became-an-asean-icon |title=The Origin of the Kebaya and How It Became an ASEAN Icon |last=Khor |first=Samantha |date=23 March 2020 |website=www.ourdaily.co |publisher=Ourdaily |access-date=17 December 2020 |archive-date=7 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230407162754/https://www.ourdaily.co/assets/blt53f2336bf71319a7/the-origin-of-the-kebaya-and-how-it-became-an-asean-icon |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==Etymology==
The link between "kebaya" with "''qaba''" "a vesture",<ref name="Expat">{{Cite web| url=https://www.expat.or.id/info/kebayatraditionaldress.html| title=The Kebaya - An Indonesian Traditional Dress for Women|website=www.expat.or.id|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref><ref name="lombard">{{cite book| title=Le carrefour javanais: essai d'histoire globale|series= Civilisations et sociétés | language=fr |author=Denys Lombard| isbn=2-7132-0949-8| publisher=École des hautes études en sciences sociales |year=1990}}</ref> an Arabic term was first established in the [[Hobson-Jobson]] dictionary in 1886. The term was used since the seventh century and was ultimately originated from a [[Persian language|Persian]] word meaning "robe of honour".<ref name ="Peter"/><ref name="Subrahmanyam">{{cite book| title=Courtly Encounters: Translating Courtliness and Violence in Early Modern Eurasia | language=en |author=Sanjay Subrahmanyam| isbn=9780674067363| publisher=Harvard University Press |year=2012}}</ref> Portuguese records published in the 16th and 17th century also noted variations of the term ''cabaya''{{refn|group=n| Variations of the term ''cabaya'' includes caba, cabai, cabaia, cabaai, cabay and cabaye}} as a Muslim long robe. The term was then introduced to the [[Malay world]] and [[Java]] through a Portuguese intermediary during the 16th century.<ref>{{Cite web| url=https://dsal.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/app/hobsonjobson_query.py?qs=CABAYA&searchhws=yes|title=Hobson-Jobson|website=dsal.uchicago.edu|language=en| access-date=2021-03-15}}</ref><ref name="Triyanto">{{Cite journal| author=Triyanto| date=29 December 2010| title=Kebaya Sebagai Trend Busana Wanita Indonesia dari Masa ke Masa| url=http://staff.uny.ac.id/sites/default/files/Buku%20KEBAYA%20(INTAN).pdf| language=id| archive-date=21 March 2023| access-date=10 October 2019| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230321192852/http://staff.uny.ac.id/sites/default/files/Buku%20KEBAYA%20%28INTAN%29.pdf| url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web| url=https://jogja.idntimes.com/news/jogja/nindias-khalika/sejarah-kebaya-pakaian-perempuan-sejak-abad-ke|title=Sejarah Kebaya, Pakaian Perempuan Sejak Abad ke-16| last1=Times|first1=I. D. N.|last2=Khalika|first2=Nindias|website=IDN Times|language=id|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref>

According to the [[Kamus Dewan]], a kebaya is defined as a women's long-sleeved dress opened at the front, secured with buttons, pins, or brooches<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://prpm.dbp.gov.my/Cari1?keyword=kebaya&d=175768&#LIHATSINI|title=Maklumat Kata Kamus Bahasa Melayu|website=prpm.dbp.gov.my|language=ms| access-date=2021-03-15}}</ref> while the [[Great Dictionary of the Indonesian Language of the Language Center|Kamus Besar Bahasa Indonesia]] described it as a women's long-sleeved upper garment worn with a long piece of cloth.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://kbbi.web.id/kebaya|title=Arti kata kebaya - Kamus Besar Bahasa Indonesia (KBBI) Online|website=kbbi.web.id|language=id|access-date=2021-03-15}}</ref> Although the etymology of kebaya has its origin as a dress worn by both men and women, the modern definition of kebaya in both languages has been narrowed to only refer to the women's dress.

==History==
===Background===
==== From the Middle East ====
There are extensive possibilities of the origin of kebaya with most indicating its roots in the [[Middle East]]. The connection between kebaya with Arabic ''[[qaba]]'', "a long loose jacket" was first established by orientalist [[Henry Yule]] and [[Arthur Coke Burnell|Arthur Burnell]] in 1886. Arabic clothing was known since the seventh century, with historical records even mentioning that the Islamic [[Prophet Muhammad]] received gifts of ''aqbiya'' (plural of ''qaba'') on several occasions. Scholars attributed that Persian is the ultimate origin of ''qaba''. With the spread of [[Islam]], the term and clothing was not only known in Arabic but also Persian, Turkish and Urdu.<ref name ="Peter"/> Due to its resemblance, many sources stated that kebaya has its origin from Muslim clothing, namely ''qaba'', ''habaya'', ''al akibiya al turkiyya'' and ''djubba''. The claim that kebaya may have its origins from the [[Arab World]] is highly possible as Islam was firmly established in the [[Malay world]] in the 15th century when women began to cover up in reaction to the Islamic dress code.<ref name ="Setiawan"/><ref name="Haziyah">{{Cite journal|author=Haziyah|title=Evolusi dan Topologi Pakaian Wanita Melayu di Semenanjung Malaysia|url=http://spaj.ukm.my/jurnalarkeologi/index.php/jurnalarkeologi/article/viewFile/144/83|url-status=dead|journal=|language=ms|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210213174853/http://spaj.ukm.my/jurnalarkeologi/index.php/jurnalarkeologi/article/viewFile/144/83|archive-date=13 February 2021}}</ref> Before Islam, local women dressed with fewer layers because of the hot and humid climate and the pre-Islamic religion of the Malays did not impose such restrictions.<ref name ="Datin"/> The Malaccan-Portuguese explorer, [[Manuel Godinho de Erédia]], suggests that the wearing of ''cabayas'' (plural of ''cabaya'') were brought to Southeast Asia by Arab and Egyptian merchants as early as 1618.<ref name ="Setiawan"/><ref name ="Peter"/><ref name="Thienny"/>

==== From the Indian Subcontinent and Portuguese ====
[[File:SpilbergenVimala.jpg|thumb|left|280px|[[Vimaladharmasuriya I of Kandy|Vimaladharmasuriya]] and [[Joris van Spilbergen|Spilbergen]], 1602. Here shown ''cabaya'' as an upper body jacket.<ref name="Karunaratne"/>]]
The detailed description of ''cabaya'' can be seen in the 19th-century [[Hobson-Jobson]] dictionary.<ref name="Triyanto"/> The Anglo-Indian dictionary describes ''cabaya'' as a word of Asian origin, referring to a surcoat or a long tunic of muslin worn by the Indian upper classes. The term was likely to be introduced into the subcontinent by the [[Portuguese people|Portuguese]].<ref name ="Peter">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Peter|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KgRcA-fksDEC&q=Sarong+Kebaya:+Peranakan+Fashion+in+an+Interconnected+World,+1500|title=Sarong Kebaya: Peranakan Fashion in an Interconnected World, 1500-1950|date=2014|publisher=University of Hawaii Press|isbn=9789810901462|language=en}}</ref> Several Portuguese records published in the 16th and 17th century also noted ''caba'', ''cabaya'' and ''cabaia'' as a Muslim long robe worn by the ruling class of India as well as the Middle East. The earliest use of the word dates to the 1540s when the Portuguese explorer, [[Fernão Mendes Pinto]] visited India. It was also mentioned that the Prince [[Dharmapala of Kotte|Dharmapala]] of [[Kingdom of Kotte|Kotte]] was the first to be introduced to the ''cabaya'' by the Portuguese, where it was worn by the Portuguese royalty during royal occasions.<ref name="Karunaratne"/> Later, King Vimaladharmasuriya of [[Kingdom of Kandy|Kandy]] established it as the upper garment for Sri Lankan royalty signifying the changing of attitudes and loyalty to the Portuguese.<ref name="Karunaratne">{{Cite journal|author=Karunaratne| title=Meanings of Fashion: Context Dependence|language=en}}</ref> Once Goa was occupied by the Portuguese in 1510, the Portuguese influences extended from the India Subcontinent to the Southeast Asia Archipelago.<ref name = "artsandculture"/> The term was then introduced to the archipelago to refer to a light cotton surcoat worn by both European men and women.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://dsal.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/app/hobsonjobson_query.py?qs=CABAYA&searchhws=yes| title=Hobson-Jobson| website=dsal.uchicago.edu| language=en|access-date=2021-03-15}}</ref>

[[File:KITLV - 7824 - Lambert & Co., G.R. - Singapore - The sultana of Johor in the company of an unknown lady - circa 1900.tif|thumb|right|240px|Sultana Khadijah of Johor and an unnamed lady. Here shown long kebaya was used alongside ''[[baju kurung]]'' by Malay royalties, circa 1900.]]
After the [[Capture of Malacca (1511)|capture of Malacca]] in 1511, the ''cabaya'' worn by the Portuguese settlers in [[Portuguese Malacca]] (1511–1641) took the fancy of local Malay women, especially in [[Johor Sultanate|Johor]] and the east coast of Malay Peninsula.<ref name ="Phromsuthirak"/><ref name = "Atelier"/><ref name="Haziyah"/> It was popularized by the [[Peranakan|Chinese Peranakan]] in Malacca.<ref name="MuziumBrunei">{{Cite journal| author=Muzium Brunei|title=Costume and Textiles of Brunei: History and Evolution|year=1995|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0UpSAQAAIAAJ&q=kebaya+BRUNEI|language=en}}</ref> This was perhaps encouraged by their Chinese husbands, as this style of clothing was considered appropriate and not that different from [[Chinese clothing|Chinese style clothing]].<ref name ="Datin"/> [[Peter Mundy]], a British writer who visited Goa in the 1630s, also stated that women in Malacca dressed similar to women in Goa.<ref name="Thienny"/> The influences of the Portuguese and Indian can be observed by the kebaya worn in Malacca, thus the possibilities that the term "cabaya" and the wearing of the dress was introduced to Malacca by the [[Portuguese people|Portuguese]] or [[Kristang people|Portuguese Eurasians]] from India is higher than by the Arabs or Chinese.<ref name ="Peter"/><ref name="Thienny">{{Cite journal| author=Thienny| date=March 2016|title= Dress and Visual Identities of the Nyonyas in the British Straits Settlement|language=en}}</ref>

====From Malacca====
Some sources also stated that kebaya is, in fact, a "Malay dress", predating the Portuguese arrival in the archipelago. Soon after the Portuguese captured [[Malacca Sultanate|Malacca]] (1400–1511), kebaya emerged as a favourite among Portuguese settlers, which led to the adoption of kebaya as one of their attire.<ref name="Haziyah"/> Historical evidence also suggests that a substantial number of skilled craftsmen were brought by the Portuguese from Malacca to Cochin as early as [[Afonso de Albuquerque]]'s return to Cochin and Goa in 1512.<ref name="Kavaya1">{{Cite web| url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276317072| title=Cochin Creole and the perils of casteist cosmopolitanism: Reading Requiem for the Living|language=en|access-date=2021-03-19}}</ref> In Cochin, the ''kavaya thuni'' was introduced by [[Luso-Asians#Luso-Malay or Malayo-Portuguese|Portuguese Malays]] and [[Luso-Asians#Luso-Chinese (Cantonese-Portuguese)|Portuguese Chinese]] from Malacca and Macau to local [[Luso-Indian|Portuguese Indians]], many of whom were brought there as wives to the Portuguese settlers.<ref name="Kavaya1"/><ref name="Kavaya2">{{Cite news| url=https://www.thehindu.com/features/friday-review/history-and-culture/red-checks-and-floral-jackets/article5182317.ece| title=Red checks and floral jackets| website=The Hindu| date=29 September 2013|language=en|access-date=2021-03-19}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web| url=https://www.sahapedia.org/boatbuilding-ponjikkara| title=Boatbuilding In Ponjikkara|language=en|access-date=2021-03-21}}</ref> Besides "kebaya", this style of clothing was also known by the Malays as "''baju belah labuh besar''" (long baggy dress)<ref name = "Atelier"/><ref name="Haziyah"/> and by the Peranakans as "''baju panjang''" (long tunic).<ref name="Thienny"/> From Malacca, kebaya made its way to Java, likely to be brought by the Chinese and Portuguese Peranakans<ref name ="Alessandra">{{Cite book|last1=Lopez y Royo|first1=Alessandra| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZEKwDwAAQBAJ&q=Contemporary+Indonesian+Fashion%3A+Through+the+Looking+Glass|title=Contemporary Indonesian Fashion: Through the Looking Glass|date=2019-10-31|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing|isbn=9781350061316|language=en}}</ref><ref name="Jill-Forshee"/> and by the 17th century, kebaya was worn by men and women across the Malay Archipelago, even in the [[Spice Islands]] further east.<ref name ="Peter"/>

====From Java====
[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Studioportret van Raden Ajeng Kartini met haar ouders zussen en broer TMnr 10018778.jpg|thumb|left|280px|Young [[Kartini]] with her family. Here shown Javanese kebaya worn by women of Javanese aristocrats, circa 1890–1904.]]
Some resources also claimed that kebaya originated from [[Majapahit]] or [[Java Island|Java]], as a means to blend the existing ''[[kemben]]'', women's torso wrap, to be more modest and acceptable as Islamic influence began to grow in coastal Javanese towns. The kebaya perhaps served to provide body coverage to court women and elites in reaction to Islamic strictures on [[Modest fashion|modesty]]. When the Portuguese tried to assume the spice trade in Indonesia in the early 16th century, some women in Java already wore kebaya on their upper bodies.<ref name ="Fashion-History"/> During this time in Java, kebaya was considered reserved clothing to be worn only by royalty and nobility. [[Majapahit]] was the first that formally adopted the kebaya,<ref name="Chavalit">{{cite book |first1=Maenmas |last1=Chavalit |first2=Maneepin |last2=Phromsuthirak |title=Costumes in ASEAN|publisher=ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information |year=2000 |isbn=9747102838| url=http://resourcecentre.asean.org/Book_Detail/?page=173&ID=693}}</ref> and subsequently it has become the official dress of its successors, [[Sultanate of Cirebon|Cirebon]] (1445–1926), [[Surakarta Sunanate|Surakarta]] (1745–1946) and [[Yogyakarta Sultanate|Yogyakarta]].<ref name="Tempo-Kebaya">{{Cite web| date=2014-08-24|title=Dari Noni Sampai Kartini |url=https://koran.tempo.co/read/topik/349968/dari-noni-sampai-kartini|access-date=2021-03-14|website=Koran Tempo|language=id}}</ref><ref name ="Pentasari">{{Cite book|last=Pentasari|first=Ria|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zKktJuYrUFcC&q=sejarah+kebaya&pg=PP17| title=Chic in Kebaya|date=2007|publisher=ESENSI|isbn=9789790152113|language=id}}</ref> Nevertheless, the use of kebaya among peasant women in Java only became widespread in the late 18th century when it was encouraged by the Dutch.<ref name ="Fashion-History"/><ref name="Jill-Forshee"/>

====From China====

Southeast Asia has traded with China, India and the Middle East since the middle of the first millennium, which is possibly responsible for the introduction of this style of clothing into the archipelago. Foreign influences have been suggested, such as [[Ming dynasty|Chinese Ming]] [[tunic]] worn by the Chinese settlers between the 14th to 16th century,<ref name ="Setiawan"/> possibly led to the creation of kebaya in Java and Malacca.<ref name = "Annette"/> Concurrently, the emergence of kebaya as the traditional attire of the Javanese and Malays originated from the integration of the style of Chinese [[Ming dynasty|Ming]], the Arab merchants and the Portuguese settlers. Thus, there are various styles of sarong kebaya throughout Southeast Asia, with each named after its famous wearer, place of origin or modification.<ref name = "Annette"/>

===Development===
==== Lace kebaya ====
[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Portret van mevrouw Van der Willegen met haar zestien dagen oude baby Johan Harmen Rudolf TMnr 60054017.jpg |thumb|left| 240px| A Dutch woman in sarong kebaya, Dutch East Indies, 1920]]
In the 16th and 17th century, the craft of lacework came to Asia by way of Goa and became popular among the local people of coastal India, Sri Lanka, and Malacca.<ref name = "artsandculture"/> In Cocos Islands, the Cocos Malays modified the kebaya with European inspired elements especially the frill collar because textiles and clothes were brought by the [[Clunies-Ross family]] during the early 19th century.<ref name = "KebayaCocos"/> By the mid-19th century, wearing an outfit consisting of a white lace ornamented kebaya and a lavish batik sarong was regarded as a privilege of the European and Eurasian women in the [[Dutch East Indies]]{{refn|group=n| Malacca was also under the Dutch rule from 1641-1825}}.<ref name = "artsandculture">{{Cite web| url=https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/singapore-sarong-kebaya-and-style-peranakan-fashion-national-heritage-board-singapore/WQJyGAwa3F7DJA?hl=en| title=Singapore, Sarong Kebaya and Style: Peranakan Fashion| website=artsandculture.google.com| language=en| access-date=2021-03-21}}</ref>

In 1872, the Dutch administration issued a rule which required every resident of the colony to wear their ethnic clothing in public areas. The ordinance perhaps served as an effort to differentiate one individual from the others and identify someone of a specific ethnic group. From 1872 until 1920, kebaya had been adopted as the preferred women's attire of the [[Dutch East Indies]], either worn by native women, European and [[Indo people|Eurasians]].<ref name = "Dutch Kebaya">{{Cite web|url=https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/234685846.pdf|title=Kebaya Encim as the Phenomenon of Mimicry in East Indies Dutch Colonial's Culture |language=en|access-date=2021-03-20}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://tirto.id/sejarah-kebaya-di-masa-kolonial-busana-perempuan-tiga-etnis-eeuK|title=Sejarah Kebaya di Masa Kolonial: Busana Perempuan Tiga Etnis|website=tirto.id|language=id|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref>

During this colonial period, the Dutch kebaya flourished in the Dutch East Indies, often using luxurious fabric embellished with imported white lace since it could block the tropics' hot air. On February 10, 1910, the colonial government issued a regulation for the Chinese Peranakan, an "equalization" that led the wealthy Peranakan women to wear kebaya and batik sarong similar to those of the Dutch and Indo women. Thus, the Peranakan women began to wear white lace kebaya, while the European and Eurasian women who used to prefer this style of kebaya started to shift to European clothing.<ref name = "artsandculture"/><ref name = "Dutch Kebaya"/><ref name="Thienny"/>

[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM De echtgenotes van twee werknemers van de Singkep Tin Maatschappij Riouw TMnr 10007287.jpg|thumb|250px| Two Peranakan women in long kebayas, [[Singkep]], [[Riau Islands]]]]
By the early 20th century, the long kebaya{{refn|group=n| Known as ''baju panjang'', ''kebaya panjang'', ''kebaya labuh'' or ''baju belah'' in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. The terms "kebaya" and "baju" are used interchangeably<ref name = "artsandculture"/>}} has evolved and the new "short kebaya", shaped and length above the hip emerged in various colonial centres, mainly in [[Java]] and the [[Straits Settlements]]{{refn|group=n| Straits Settlements consist of [[Penang]], [[Malacca]] and [[Singapore]]}}. During this time, the long kebaya was seen as conservative and staid, worn only by the elderly women of the Peranakan community. As an option, the young Peranakans began to modify the form of a long kebaya and turned it into a short kebaya that the Europeans and Eurasians had adopted earlier.<ref name ="Infopedia">{{Cite web|last=Koh|first=Jaime| title=Nonya kebaya| work=Singapore Infopedia| url=https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_173744.html|access-date=2021-03-07}}</ref> The Peranakans would often recycle the fabrics of their long kebayas into short kebayas.<ref name ="Datin"/>

The short kebaya worn by Peranakan is a tighter-fitting sheer blouse as opposed to the loose-fitting, knee-length tunic of its predecessor.<ref name ="Datin"/><ref name = "Dutch Kebaya"/> The earliest example of a short kebaya worn by the community is the lace kebaya{{refn|group=n| Known as ''kebaya renda'' in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. ''Renda'' is a Malay word borrowed from the Portuguese term for lace}}.<ref name ="Datin"/><ref name = "Dutch Kebaya"/> This style is noted for the outstanding use of popular European lace to trim along the front opening hems and sleeves. Similar to a long kebaya, it has no buttons and needs to be fastened with pins or brooches. Even though lace kebaya has existed since at least the early 19th century, worn primarily by the Europeans and Eurasians, it was only a century later that the Peranakan women began to wear this type of kebaya.

==== Cutwork kebaya ====
[[File:2016 Kuala Lumpur, Muzeum Narodowe, Ekspozycja (037).jpg|thumb|220px|A kebaya worn with batik sarong by Peranakan women in the early 20th century]]
Further transformation of kebaya can also be attributed to European influences.<ref name ="Datin"/> By the 1910s, the base materials for kebaya began to change from fine white cotton to bright and transparent fabrics such as voile and organdie imported from France and Switzerland. By the 1920s, the German organdie and colourful printed voiles became popular. Through the introduction of European fabrics, kebaya became increasingly luxurious and glamorous, while the sarong overflowed with vivid colours. By the 1930s, the kebaya had become more colourful, decorated with cutwork, suitable for local ethnic taste.

By the late 1930s, the lace kebaya then evolved to cutwork kebaya with decorated scallops and cutwork embroidery at the edge{{refn|group=n| Known as ''kebaya biku'' or ''kebaya kerawang'' in Malaysia, Singapore and ''kebaya kerancang'' in Indonesia}} as the technological growth began to introduce fabric stencil sewing machines. The widespread use of sewing machines not only sped up the embroidery process but also opened up more kebaya design possibilities.<ref name="Thienny"/> This kebaya style is made by perforating the edging of the kebaya at the front, embroidering it with colourful threads to make it look like lace. It is considered the first kebaya to feature embroidery, an upgraded version of lace kebaya.<ref name ="Datin"/>

==== Embroidered kebaya====
By the late 1940s, the cutwork kebaya then evolved to embroidered kebaya,{{refn|group=n|Known as ''kebaya sulam'' in Malaysia, Singapore and ''kebaya bordir'' in Indonesia. ''Sulam'' is a Malay word for embroidery while ''bordir'' is a word borrowed from the Dutch term for embroidery}} the quintessential Nyonya kebaya that is very popular until today.<ref name = "Dutch Kebaya"/> The embroidered kebaya is made of plain voile or gauze instead of the printed fabrics of a long kebaya. This style of kebaya stands out for its exquisite stencil that highlights the beautiful colours of the blouse,<ref name ="Infopedia"/><ref name = "Dutch Kebaya"/> with famous designs include floral, figural and geometric motifs.<ref name="Thienny"/> This style of kebaya started to appear widespread during World War I as the rise in the price of lace led to the adoption of machine embroidery.<ref name = "artsandculture"/>

Although Peranakan kebaya has Javanese and Malay roots, it has evolved into a Peranakan community's distinctive outfit. The development of the embroidered kebaya is regarded as a Peranakan identity.<ref name ="Infopedia"/> The use of sarong kebaya in other Peranakan communities, namely [[Chitty|Chetti Melaka]], [[Jawi Peranakan|Jawi Pekan]] and [[Kristang people|Kristang]] also shows the influence of the Chinese Peranakans, which had started to wear the outfit much earlier in the 1920s and 1930s. Nevertheless, there are some slight differences between the kebaya worn by each community.<ref name="KebayaChetti"/><ref name = "Pillai">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Uh1qDwAAQBAJ&q=portuguese+kebaya&pg=PR18| editor=Patrick Pillai|title=Yearning to Belong|publisher=Flipside Digital Content Company Inc|year=2016|isbn=9789814762007}}</ref>

=== Independence ===

==== Brunei====
There are four types of kebaya worn by women in Brunei, namely ''kebaya panjang'', ''kebaya labuh'', ''kebaya pendek'' and ''kebaya Bandung''. In contrast with the first two styles, ''kebaya pendek'' and ''kebaya Bandung'' were introduced to Bruneian much later in the early 1950s, and were popular during the 1960s and 1970s.<ref name="MuziumBrunei"/>

==== Indonesia ====
During the colonial time up to the earlier times of the republic, kebaya was the Indonesian women's everyday dress in various regions. The wardrobe collections of elderly Indonesian always included kebaya as daily wear.<ref name="Harsianti"/> After Indonesian independence from the Dutch, Sukarno, Indonesia's first president, appointed kebaya as a national attire of Indonesia.<ref name="GNFI-Kebaya"/> Kebaya as the national attire was often featured by Indonesian first ladies, notably [[Fatmawati]] and [[Dewi Sukarno]], the wives of [[Sukarno]]. Nevertheless, the more democratic consensus of kebaya as the national attire took place in Jakarta, decades later in 1978, where kebaya was selected among four candidates.

==== Malaysia and Singapore====
In contrast with the long kebaya, the short kebaya has been popular in Malaysia since 1920. The short kebaya does not only refer to the Nyonya kebaya, but it is also used to refer to other short kebayas like ''kebaya Bandung'' and ''kebaya Kota Bharu'' that appeared around the same era.<ref name="MuziumBrunei"/> Short kebaya generally consists of a figure-hugging blouse and is made to emphasize the shape of the body that is popular among young women, especially in major cities like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang.<ref name="Haziyah"/>

By the late 1990s, during the era when Muslim women began to dress conservatively, ''kebarung'', a new style of clothing that combined the elements of ''[[baju kurung]]'' and kebaya emerged as its modest look was preferred by the Malays.<ref name="Haziyah"/>

==Attire components==
The quintessential Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged, as noted by Raffles in 1817.<ref>Panular, P. B. R. Carey, ''The British in Java, 1811-1816: a Javanese account : a text edition, English synopsis and commentary on British Library Additional Manuscript 12330 (Babad Bĕdhah ing Ngayogyakarta)'', British Academy by Oxford University Press: 1992, {{ISBN|0-19-726062-4}}, 611 pages</ref><ref>John Pemberton, ''On the subject of "Java"'', Cornell University Press: 1994, {{ISBN|0-8014-9963-1}}, 333 pages</ref> It consists of the blouse (''kebaya'') with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch (''kerongsang'') where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over a ''kain'', and secured with ''angkin'' waist sash. The order of wear is: first undergarments, followed with ''kain panjang'' skirt secured with ''angkin'' sash, then the kebaya blouse is worn and usually secured with ''kerongsang''. In Java, a certain hairdo is required in harmony with a traditional kebaya—the ''konde'' or ''sanggul'' hairbun, either of natural hair, or adding [[Artificial hair integrations|artificial extensions]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-07-02|title=Kebaya dan Sanggul, Akulturasi Budaya Dunia dalam Budaya Indonesia|url=https://redaksiindonesia.com/read/kebaya-dan-sanggul-akulturasi-budaya-dunia-dalam-budaya-indonesia.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190706012524/http://redaksiindonesia.com/read/kebaya-dan-sanggul-akulturasi-budaya-dunia-dalam-budaya-indonesia.html|url-status=usurped|archive-date=July 6, 2019|access-date=2021-03-15|website=Redaksi Indonesia|language=id}}</ref> The Javanese ''konde'' is secured with ornamented ''tusuk konde'' hairpin made of gold, silver or iron. The traditional kain kebaya attire with ''konde'' hairdo is considered as the epitome of Javanese ladies' elegance.<ref>{{Cite web|author=Irwan|title=Makna Dan Filosofi Pakaian Adat Wanita Jawa|url=https://www.lenterajogja.com/2016/07/makna-dan-filosofi-pakaian-adat-wanita.html|access-date=2021-03-15|website=Lentera Jogja|language=id|archive-date=2021-03-03|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210303144126/https://www.lenterajogja.com/2016/07/makna-dan-filosofi-pakaian-adat-wanita.html|url-status=dead}}</ref> On the other hand, among the Peranakan communities, the ideal ''kebaya sulam'' also includes decorative accessories such as a hairpin (''cucuk sanggul''), a silver belt for securing the sarong (''pending''), as well as a pair of beaded slippers (''kasut manik'').<ref name ="Infopedia"/>

[[File:NILAM IN KEBAYA.jpg|thumb|200px|A Javanese style black silk kebaya secured with ''kerongsang'' brooch, worn over a batik sarong]]
;Blouse (''Kebaya''): The [[blouse]] is commonly semi-transparent and made from various materials, from cotton or velvet to fine silk, exquisite lace and brocade, decorated with stitching or glittering sequins and can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting. In the Malay populated areas, a plainer and modest knee-length long-sleeved kebaya made out of ''[[songket]]'' or ''tenun'' is more common.

;Undergarments (''Kemben'', ''Kutang'' or ''Baju Dalam''): Traditionally, Javanese women wear ''[[kemben]]'' while the Nyonya wear ''baju dalam'' beneath their kebaya to cover the breasts for modesty reasons due to the semi-transparent material of their kebayas.<ref name ="Datin"/> Today, the undergarment used under kebaya is usually either a [[corset]], [[bra]] or [[camisole]]. The simpler and more modest undergarment worn by villagers, usually elderly women, is called ''kutang'', which is a bra-like undergarment made from cotton.

;Skirt (''Kain'' or ''Sarong''): ''Kain panjang'' is a long cloth wrapped around the hips, secured with a belt and worn as a kind of [[sarong]] or skirt. The ''kain'' is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long while ''sarong'' is a stitched tube-like fabric wrap of the same length. For Javanese, Sundanese and Nyonya kebaya, [[batik]] is the most common, which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted ''batik tulis'' embroidered silk with gold thread. In Bali and Malay populated areas, ''[[songket]]'', ''[[Tenun Pahang Diraja|tenun]]'' or other kinds of [[Balinese textiles]] are commonly used, often of matching fabrics with the blouse.

;Sash (''Angkin'' or ''Stagen''): After the ''kain panjang'' is wrapped around the wearer's hips and tied securely with a cloth rope, an additional waist [[sash]] akin to a [[cummerbund]] is wrapped around the hips. In Java, this long cloth is known as ''angkin''<ref>{{Cite web|title=Arti Kata angkin - Indonesia Inggris Kamus Translate dan Terjemahan|url=https://www.kamuskbbi.id/indonesia/english.php?mod=view&angkin&id=19601-kamus-inggris-indonesia.html|access-date=2021-03-15|website=www.kamuskbbi.id}}</ref>—or its modern version might use ''stagen'' instead.<ref>{{Cite web|last=kamuslengkap.com|title=Arti kata stagen dalam kamus Indonesia-Inggris|url=https://kamuslengkap.com/kamus/indonesia-inggris/arti-kata/stagen|access-date=2021-03-15|website=Kamuslengkap.com|language=en}}</ref> ''Angkin'' refers to a long sash made of fabric, usually made of ''jumputan'' Javanese tie-dye, batik or plain cloth. ''Stagen'' refers to an elastic waistband, with embedded rubber, and usually secured with [[Hook-and-loop fastener|velcro]] or small hooks. In most of Indonesian kebaya, e.g. Kutu Baru and Javanese kebayas—the sash is always worn beneath the kebaya blouse, thus only visible on the front, while in Balinese kebaya the sash is clearly visible, similarly worn over the kebaya to the Japanese ''[[Obi (sash)|obi]]''.

[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Zilveren kabaja speld voor op een damesblouse TMnr 3934-20.jpg|thumb|upright|Silver kebaya ''kerongsang'' pin, Dutch East Indies circa 1927, collection of the [[Tropenmuseum]]]]

;Brooch (''Kerongsang''): To secure the blouse opening in the front, a decorative metal [[brooch]] is applied on the chest. It can be made from iron, brass, silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece ''kerongsang'' is composed of a ''kerongsang ibu'' (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two ''kerongsang anak'' (child piece). ''Kerongsang'' made from [[gold]] was considered as the sign of the social status of the royalty and nobility; however, for commoners, simple and plain kebaya often only fastened with simple [[safety pin]]s (''peniti''). Most of kebaya variants applied ''kerongsang'' to secure their front opening. However, certain style of kebaya that uses buttons instead, e.g. Balinese kebaya—usually do not wear any ''kerongsang''.

;Belt (''Sabuk'' or ''Pending''): A ''kain panjang'' requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (''tali''). The string is then folded at the waist and held with a belt (''sabuk'' or ''ikat pinggang'' or ''pending''). Similar to ''kain'', sarong also sometimes requires a helper. A ''sabuk'' or ''pending'' functions as a belt to fasten the sarong as well as an accessory to the attire. ''Sabuk'' refers to "belt" while ''pending'' more precisely refers to metal belts made of a chain of metal pieces of silver, gold or brass. This metal belt is seldom used in most of kebaya variants and is only valid to specific kebaya styles.

[[File:2016 Kuala Lumpur, Muzeum Narodowe, Ekspozycja (035).jpg|thumb|200px|Beaded and embroidered shoes worn by Peranakan Nyonya]]

;Shoes (''Selop'' or ''Kasut Manik''): In order to complete her sarong kebaya outfit, Nyonya wear a pair of intricate and finely stitched [[bead]]ed slippers called ''kasut manik''.<ref name ="Infopedia"/> The ''kasut manik'' are made for two types of occasions. For joyful occasions, such as ''[[Chinese New Year|Sambot Taon]]'', the beaded slippers are made of colourful beads with intricate patterns, while for mournful occasions, the beads used are black, white or blue with simpler patterns. These matching beaded slippers are seldom used in most of kebaya variants, only used in specific kebaya styles, i.e. the nyonya kebaya. In most of Indonesian kebayas, traditional Javanese ''selop'', which are slippers made of leather or fabrics such as velvet, are commonly used. Modern kebaya uses modern [[Ladies' shoe|women's shoes]] with matching colour instead.

==Varieties==

===Variants of Kebaya elements===
[[File:Batik kain worn by female hat seller, Yogkakarta.jpg|thumb|140px|right|Simple Kutubaru kebaya (square collar) worn by a Javanese woman in Yogyakarta]]
;Collars: In the aspect of the collar or neck cut, there are two main varieties; the V-shaped collar (Javanese, Kartini, Balinese, Malay, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan) and the square-shaped collar (Kutubaru or Kota Bharu). The Riau-Pahang kebaya has a band collar secured with buttons known as "cekak musang" while the Sundanese kebaya has a U-shaped collar, similar to the modern kebaya. The modern kebaya also might apply various shapes and curves of collars.

;Fabrics: In the aspect of the fabric, the blouse may be of two main forms: transparent or semi-transparent materials of Javanese, Sundanese, Balinese, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan kebaya and the modest non-transparent materials of Kartini, Malay and Riau-Pahang kebaya. The Javanese kebaya is usually made of [[silk]], [[cotton]] and [[velvet]], while the Malay kebaya is usually made of locally woven textiles such as ''[[songket]]'' or ''[[Tenun Pahang Diraja|tenun]]''.

;Cut and fittings: In the cut aspect, two main varieties are; the more tightly tailored Javanese, Sundanese, Balinese, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan kebaya, and the modest loose-fitting kebaya worn by conservative Muslim women. The more Islamic-compatible Malay kebaya is a loose-fitting, knee-length, long-sleeved blouse worn in the Malay populated areas of Malaya, Sumatra and Borneo.

===Varieties in Indonesia===
[[File:Kebaya Fanbo Cropped.jpg|thumb|right|140px|Indonesian woman in kebaya and kain [[batik]]. The trace of ''kemban'' (torso wrap) can be seen underneath the semi-transparent [[brocade]] kebaya.]]

====Kartini kebaya====
The type of kebaya used by aristocratic Javanese women, especially during the lifetime of [[Kartini|Raden Ajeng Kartini]], circa 19th century.<ref name="Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya">{{Cite web|url=https://cantik.tempo.co/read/1225566/aneka-jenis-kebaya-indonesia-mana-yang-paling-anda-suka|title=Aneka Jenis Kebaya Indonesia, Mana yang Paling Anda Suka?|last=Widiyarti|first=Yayuk|date=2019-07-17|website=Tempo|language=id|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref> Often the term "Javanese kebaya" is synonymous with the kebaya Kartini, although slightly different. Kebaya Kartini is usually made from fine but non-transparent fabrics, and white is a favoured colour. Basic Kebaya Kartini might be plain. The adornment is quite minimal, only stitching or applied laces along the edges. The V-shaped collar cut of this type of kebaya is quite similar to the Peranakan Encim kebaya, however, it is distinguished by its distinctive fold on the chest. Another feature of the Kartini kebaya is the length of the kebaya that covers the hips, and the collar folds with a vertical line shape, which creates the tall and slender impression of the wearer.<ref name="Gosocio">{{cite web | work = Go Socio | title = Mengenal Jenis-Jenis Kebaya di Indonesia | url = http://gosocio.co.id/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia.html | language = id | access-date = 2014-11-06 | archive-date = 2017-11-09 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20171109081257/http://gosocio.co.id/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia.html | url-status = dead }}</ref> The Kartini-style kebaya inspired the cut and style of [[Garuda Indonesia]]'s flight attendants' uniform.

====Kutubaru kebaya====
The basic form of Kutubaru kebaya is quite similar to other types of kebaya.<ref name="Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya"/> What distinguishes it is the additional fabric called ''bef'' to connect the left and right side of the kebaya in the chest and abdomen. This creates a square or rectangle-shaped collar. This type of kebaya was meant to recreate the look of an unsecured kebaya worn over a matching ''[[kemben]]'' (torso wrap) undergarment. Kebaya Kutubaru is believed to have originated from [[Central Java]].<ref name="GNFI-Kebaya">{{cite web | work = Good News From Indonesia | title = Benarkah Kebaya adalah Pakaian Asli Indonesia? | author = Adriani Zulivan | date = 4 March 2017 | language = id | url = https://www.goodnewsfromindonesia.id/2017/03/04/benarkah-kebaya-adalah-pakaian-asli-indonesia}}</ref> Usually to wear this type of kebaya, ''stagen'' (cloth wrapped around the stomach), or rubber-enforced black corset is worn under the kebaya, thus the wearer will look more slender.<ref name="Gosocio"/>

====Javanese kebaya====
[[File:Traditional Javanese marriage costume.jpg|thumb|right|upright|Kebaya and Batik are used in traditional Javanese wedding attire.]]
This type of kebaya from Java has a simple shape with a V-neck. This straight and simple cut gives an impression of simple elegance. Usually, a Javanese kebaya is made of semi-transparent fine fabric patterned with floral stitching or embroidery, sometimes adorned with sequins. Other fabrics might be used, including cotton, brocade, silk and velvet. The semi-transparent kebaya is worn over matching underwear, either a corset, bra or camisole.<ref name="Gosocio"/>

====Keraton or Solo kebaya====
[[Keraton]] Kebaya, also known as Solo kebaya,<ref name="Inspirasi"/> is an aristocratic kebaya typically worn by noble women of the court of [[Surakarta Sunanate|Surakarta Hadiningrat kingdom]] of the [[Surakarta|Solo city]] in Central Java. Despite popularly being called Solo (Surakarta) kebaya, this type of kebaya is actually also commonly worn as aristocratic dress for noble ladies in neighboring Javanese courts, including [[Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat|Yogyakarta]], [[Pakualaman]] and [[Mangkunegaran]].

Solo kebaya usually uses dark coloured fabrics, with black [[velvet]] as the most favoured material. The edge around the sleeves and along the collar up to the front opening and bottom edges are decorated with golden or silver beads and sequins. The cut of Solo kebaya is longer than common Javanese kebaya, usually up to the knee of the wearer. Solo kebaya is known for its elegance and is usually used for Javanese Solo Putri style wedding dresses.<ref name="Womantalk">{{Cite web|title=Kenali 7 Jenis Kebaya Indonesia untuk Inspirasi Busana Kondangan Ini|first=Giza|last=Risdynia|url=https://womantalk.com/fashion/articles/kenali-7-jenis-kebaya-indonesia-untuk-inspirasi-busana-kondangan-ini-D6576|access-date=2021-02-04|website=womantalk.com|language=id|date=15 August 2019}}</ref>

====Sundanese kebaya====
[[File:Seren Taun 2012 Bogor B.jpg|thumb|right|upright|Girls in white Sundanese kebaya during [[Seren Taun]] harvest festival]]
Tight-fitting brocade [[Sundanese people|Sundanese]] kebaya allows more freedom in design, and much applied in modern kebaya and wedding kebaya in Indonesia. The semi-transparent fabrics is patterned with floral stitching or embroidery. The main difference with other kebaya style is the U collar neckline, often applying broad curves to cover shoulders and chest. Another difference is the extra long lower parts of kebaya, with hanging edges which covers hips and thigh. Furthermore, they are known to very colourful and brightly coloured. The contemporary wedding kebaya dress even has sweeping long [[Train (clothing)|train]].  Historically, the Sundanese kebaya is separated into three different categories based on a person's social standing: the aristocrats, middle class workers, and the commoners, where they each have their own stylistic conventions that would have been followed by members of the class.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Silaen|first=Febria|title=Mengenal baju adat Sunda|url=https://lokadata.id/artikel/mengenal-baju-adat-sunda|access-date=2021-08-07|website=Lokadata.ID|language=id|archive-date=2021-08-07|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210807051807/https://lokadata.id/artikel/mengenal-baju-adat-sunda|url-status=dead}}</ref>

====Bandung kebaya====
This kebaya design originated from the city of [[Bandung]] in the 1950s. The distinctive feature of this kebaya is the ''kerah setali'' ([[shawl collar]]) that folds up to the chest. The cut is also unique in that the back is shorter than the front. The Bandung kebaya design is a very short kebaya with a length only up to the waist or a few centimetres below the waist, exposing the curved hips of the wearer. This rather daring design was meant for young maiden and considered as one of the most chic kebaya variant. It is often applied in modern kebaya fashion, unorthodoxly combined with tight kain sarong, pants or short skirts. Kebaya Bandung usually uses a shawl collar that forms a V-neckline with a slit on the front secured with buttons. The material used for the Bandung Kebaya is brocade combined with a long batik cloth.<ref name="Inspirasi">{{Cite web|last=Belia|first=Aya Prita|date=2018-12-17|title=Ragam Kebaya di Indonesia : Indah, Anggun, dan Klasik|url=https://inspirasipagi.id/ragam-kebaya-di-indonesia/|access-date=2021-02-04|website=Inspirasi Pagi|language=id}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Mengenal Jenis-jenis KEBAYA Indonesia|work=Milda|url=https://www.mildaini.com/2017/08/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-indonesia.html|access-date=2021-02-04}}</ref>

====Balinese kebaya====
[[File:Three Balinese girls wearing kebaya.jpg|thumb|right|[[Balinese people|Balinese]] girls wearing a kebaya]]
[[Balinese people|Balinese]] kebaya is quite similar to Javanese kebaya, but slightly different. The Balinese kebaya usually has V neck line with folded collar sometimes decorated with laces. They are usually tight-fitting made with colorful semi-transparent or plain fabrics either cotton or brocade, patterned with floral stitching or embroidery. Unlike traditional Javanese kebaya, Balinese kebaya might add buttons in the front opening, and kerongsang brooch is seldom used. The main difference is Balinese kebaya add [[Obi (sash)|obi-like]] [[sash]] upon kebaya, wrap around the waist.<ref name="Gosocio"/>

The Balinese kebaya is part of ''busana adat'' or customary dress, Balinese women are required to wear kebaya during [[Balinese Hinduism|Balinese Hindu]] rituals and ceremony in [[Balinese temple|pura]]. White kebaya are favoured for Balinese religious rituals. Other than religious ceremony, contemporary Balinese women also often wear kebaya for their daily activities. Because most Balinese people are Hindus, the Balinese kebaya usually has shorter sleeves compared to Javanese kebaya.

====Madurese kebaya====
''Kebaya Madura'' is the style of kebaya from the island of [[Madura]] off coast of East Java. It is also known as ''kebaya rancongan'', it has a characteristic on the neck collar in the V shape. In addition, this kebaya is also equipped with jewelry to cover the neck and chest. The length of this kebaya is only up to the waist and tapers at the bottom. Kebaya Madura shows the curves of wearer's body, to create elegant silhouette.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Intjelawara|first=Fitrisiana|date=2017-05-02|title=Mengenal Jenis Kebaya di Indonesia|url=https://www.devenews.com/mengenal-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia/|access-date=2021-02-04|website=DeveNews.com|language=id}}</ref>

====Malay kebaya====
''Kebaya Labuh'' is a style of Malay kebaya which is quite similar to ''[[baju kurung]]''. This type of kebaya used in Sumatra, particularly on [[Malay Indonesians|Malay-populated provinces]], including [[North Sumatra]], [[Riau]], the [[Riau Islands]], [[Jambi]], the [[Bangka Belitung Islands]], and [[South Sumatra]]. ''Kebaya labuh'' is actually more specifically associated with the [[Riau-Lingga Sultanate|Melayu Lingga]] culture.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Baju Kebaya Labuh, Warisan Budaya Takbenda Indonesia, Kementerian Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan Republik Indonesia|url=https://warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id/?newdetail&detailCatat=9521|access-date=2021-02-04|website=warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id|language=id}}</ref> The ''kebaya labuh'' consists of a loose, knee-length tunic and is usually made of semi-transparent fabrics. The central opening of the blouse-dress is usually wrapped by brooches and is traditionally worn with ''kemban'', along with a [[sarong]] or ''[[songket]]'' around the hips.<ref name ="The Origin of the Kebaya"/>

====Batak kebaya====
[[File:'Mangulosi' in traditional Batak marriage, Medan, Sumatra Utara, Indonesia.jpg|thumb|right|[[Batak]] people wear kebaya for special occasion such as for church or wedding, usually combined with [[ulos]] or songket.]] 
Batak kebaya are variant of kebaya adopted by [[Batak]] people of [[North Sumatra]]. Traditionally Batak people wear [[ulos]] clothes wrapped around their body in similar fashion to Javanese ''kemben'', and also draped around the shoulders. However, kebaya was relatively recent being adopted into Batak culture, mainly owed to national culture of Indonesia that promote the use of kebaya among Indonesians.

The cuts and materials of Batak kebaya is similar to Sundanese kebaya, which is brocade decorated with sequins, with U-shaped neckline and allows freedom in design. The favourite colours for Batak kebaya, especially for weddings are red, white, gold and black. There are three types of Batak kebayas; they are [[Toba Batak people|Batak Toba]] kebaya, [[Karo people (Indonesia)|Batak Karo]] kebaya, and [[Mandailing people|Batak Mandailing]] kebaya.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-09-03|title=Kebaya Pengantin Batak Kamu Berasal dari Mana? |url=https://www.weddingmarket.com/artikel/kebaya-pengantin-batak|access-date=2021-02-04|website=Wedding Market Artikel|language=id}}</ref> Batak kebaya usually wore as wedding dress or as formal dress, combined with traditional ulos cloth put around the shoulder, [[songket]] skirt, ''sortali'' head band of Batak Toba, traditional Karo head dress, or ''bulang'' golden crown of Mandailing style.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Wima|first=Pinka|title=15 Busana Adat Batak untuk Tampil Istimewa di Hari Pernikahan|url=https://www.idntimes.com/life/women/pinka-wima/15-busana-adat-batak|access-date=2021-02-04|date=30 September 2018|website=IDN Times|language=id}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Arumi Bachsin Percaya Diri Berkebaya Batak|url=https://medan.tribunnews.com/2012/07/02/arumi-bachsin-percaya-diri-berkebaya-batak|date=2 July 2012|access-date=2021-03-10|website=Tribun Medan|language=id-ID}}</ref>

====Ambon kebaya====
Ambon kebaya refer to a type of kebaya being used in [[Eastern Indonesia]], especially associated with [[Ambon, Maluku|Ambon]] city of [[Maluku Islands]].<ref name="Ambon">{{Cite web|title=Pakaian Adat Ambon|url=https://ambon.go.id/pakaian-adat/|access-date=2021-02-04|website=Pemerintah Kota Ambon|language=id}}</ref> During colonial times of [[Dutch East India Company|VOC]] rules, the prevalence of kebaya in [[Dutch East Indies]] has led to the adoption of kebaya outside of its traditional realms in Java, including the Dutch possessions in Eastern Indonesia, such as in Minahasa and Amboina. Traditionally Ambonese ladies wear ''baju cele'' which is simple loose dress with neck hole has only three or four buttons near the front neckline. Ambon kebaya for women has two types; the ''kebaya putih panjang'' (long sleeved white kebaya) and ''kebaya hitam gereja'' (black church kebaya). Long sleeved white kebaya is made from white brocade with front opening secured either with buttons or golden pins. Black kebaya for church has cuts akin to ''baju cele'' shirt, it has long sleeves and made of black brocade, the sarong is also made of black brocade. Ambon kebaya usually worn combined with black ''cenela'' slippers with white socks, and the ladies usually also bring ''lenso'' laced [[handkerchief]].<ref name="Ambon"/><ref>{{Cite web|last=Arthasalina|first=Dian Septi|title=5 Macam Pakaian Adat Maluku, Paduan Kebaya dan Kain Khas|url=https://www.idntimes.com/life/inspiration/dian-arthasalina/5-macam-pakaian-adat-maluku-paduan-kebaya-dan-kain-khas|access-date=2021-03-10|website=IDN Times|date=August 2019 |language=id}}</ref>

====Minahasa kebaya====
[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Jonge vrouwen van het eiland Sangihe bij Noord-Celebes TMnr 10005697.jpg|thumb|upright|Maidens from Sangihe of North Sulawesi wearing kebaya, during colonial Dutch East Indies era]]
Minahasa kebaya is a type of kebaya used by [[Minahasan people]] of [[North Sulawesi]].<ref>{{Cite web|last=Redaksi|title=Luar Biasa, Tarian Kabasaran dan Kebaya Minahasa Curi Perhatian Parade ASEAN|url=https://www.manadoterkini.com/2017/08/51631/luar-biasa-tarian-kabasaran-dan-kebaya-minahasa-curi-perhatian-parade-asean/|access-date=2021-02-08|website=Manado Terkini|date=28 August 2017 |language=id}}</ref> This Eastern Indonesian kebaya has common origin with Ambon kebaya and colonial noni indo kebaya, which was adopted during colonial era of [[Dutch East India Company|VOC]] and [[Dutch East Indies]]. The cut is similar to Ambon and Dutch Noni kebaya, with white lace or brocade as the preferred materials.

White kebaya combined with kain batik sarong imported from Java used to be wore everyday in the past, but now usually confined for special occasion such as church or weddings. While for brides, white Minahasa kebaya is combined with white brocade long skirt with design resembles a fish tail called ''baju ikan duyung'', thus the Minahasan bride resembles a mermaid.<ref>{{Cite web|work=Pariwisata Indonesia|date=2020-07-24|title=Pakaian Adat Minahasa|url=https://pariwisataindonesia.id/jelajah/pakaian-adat-minahasa/|access-date=2021-02-08|language=id}}</ref>

====Mongondow kabaya====
Mongondow kabaya, or simply called ''kabaya'', is a type of kebaya of [[Mongondow people]] of [[North Sulawesi]] and [[Gorontalo]]. Kabaya refer to blouse for the top, while the bottom skirt is called ''daing''. If the kabaya is in the same colour as the ''daing'' it is usually called ''kabaya pasere''. Usually kabaya of Mongondow has small flowers patterns.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Pakaian Adat Kabaya, Warisan Budaya Takbenda, Kementerian Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan Republik Indonesia|url=https://warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id/?newdetail&detailCatat=4054|access-date=2021-02-04|website=warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id|language=id}}</ref>

====Jumputan kebaya====
Jumputan kebaya refer to kebaya that is made from ''kain jumputan'' or Javanese [[tie-dye]]. The ''jumputan'' patterns usually took forms of dots created from tie-die technique that represents small flowers akin to jasmines. The cut of kebaya may be kutubaru or Javanese style. The characteristic of this outfit is the addition of contrast coloured ''angkin'' or ''stagen'' waist cloths. ''Angkin'' is a type of sash or belt made of long clothes wrapped around the belly.<ref name="Womantalk"/>

====Lurik kebaya====
Lurik kebaya refer to kebaya that is made from ''kain lurik'' or Javanese woven clothes. Kain lurik usually has dark earthy tone, ranged from light brown to dark brown and black. Unlike fine Javanese batik tulis or fine brocade, traditionally ''lurik'' are considered as simple and rather coarse clothes commonly wore by Javanese farmers or peasants. It is most specifically associated with [[Special Region of Yogyakarta|Yogyakarta]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=2020-08-23|title=Jenis-jenis Kebaya di Indonesia dan Cara Membedakannya|url=https://www.beepdo.com/118671/jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia-dan-cara-membedakannya|access-date=2021-02-04|website=Beepdo.com|language=id|archive-date=2021-02-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210210153110/https://www.beepdo.com/118671/jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia-dan-cara-membedakannya|url-status=dead}}</ref>

====Kerancang kebaya====
Kerancang kebaya refer to kebaya made from ''bordir kerancang'' or kerancang [[embroidery]], a traditional craft of [[Betawi people|Betawi]] from Jakarta. Betawi culture has several types of kebaya, they are kebaya encim, kebaya kerancang, and kebaya panjang nyak Betawi. Kebaya kerancang are usually worn as the formal dress for the wedding party by the mothers of the bride and groom. The cut may be akin to kartini model with a ''sondai'' tip, tapering down at the front measuring 20 to 30 centimetres from the flat part of the hip, or it can be kebaya panjang nyak Betawi, which is a long kebaya with flat bottom edge measuring 3 to 5 centimetres above the knees. Kebaya kerancang usually has bright and vivid colours.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Kebaya Kerancang, Warisan Budaya Takbenda Indonesia, Kementerian Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan Republik Indonesia|url=https://warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id/?newdetail&detailTetap=494|access-date=2021-02-04|website=warisanbudaya.kemdikbud.go.id|language=id}}</ref>

====Noni or Indo kebaya====
Indo kebaya is also known as ''kebaya Noni'', derived from the term ''noni'' or ''nona'' which literally means "miss" to refer a young girl or unmarried woman of European descent.<ref name="Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya"/> During the [[Dutch East Indies]] era of Indonesia, [[Indo people|Indo]] women also colonial European women of high status adopted the kebaya, which provided less restrictive and cooler clothing, as a formal or social dress. Colonial ladies abandon their tight [[corset]] and wear light and comfortable undergarment under their kebaya. Indos and colonials probably adopted kebaya inherited from the clothing worn by [[Njai]], [[Native Indonesian|native]] women kept as housekeepers, companions, and concubines in the colonial households. Njai ladies were the ancestors of Indo people (mixed European and Asian ancestry).

The cut and style of kebaya worn by the Dutch and Indo ladies were actually derived from Javanese kebaya. Nevertheless, there are some slight differences, European women wore shorter sleeves and total length cotton in prints, adorned with laces often imported from Europe. The kebaya worn by colonials and Indo ladies mostly are white and has light fabrics, this was meant to provide pleasant and cooler clothing in hot and humid tropical climate, since dark colored fabrics attract and retain heat.

The day kebaya of the [[Indo people]] was of white cotton trimmed with oriental motif handmade lace, either locally made in East Indies, or imported from [[Bruges]] or the [[Netherlands]]. While black silk kebaya is used for evening wear.

====Encim or Peranakan kebaya====
[[File:Baju Kebaya Encim.jpg|thumb|right|Encim kebaya as part of Betawi traditional attire]]
In [[Java]], the kebaya worn by ladies of [[Chinese Indonesian|Chinese ancestry]] is called ''kebaya encim'', derived from the name ''encim'' or ''enci'' to refer to a married Chinese woman.<ref>{{cite web
 |url        = http://female.kompas.com/read/2013/01/13/10574438/Tantangan.Bisnis.Kebaya.Encim
 |title      = Tantangan Bisnis Kebaya Encim
 |last       = Agnes Swetta Pandia & Nina Susilo
 |date       = 13 January 2013
 |language   = id
 |publisher  = Female Kompas.com
 |access-date = 19 January 2013
}}
</ref> It was commonly worn by Chinese ladies in Javan coastal cities with significant Chinese settlements, such as [[Semarang]], Lasem, Tuban, [[Surabaya]], [[Pekalongan]] and [[Cirebon]]. Encim kebaya is also adopted as the traditional attire of [[Betawi people]] of [[Jakarta]],<ref>{{Cite web|last=Media|first=Kompas Cyber|title=Mengenal Kebaya Encim, Busana yang Identik dengan Perempuan Betawi Halaman all|url=https://lifestyle.kompas.com/read/2018/10/25/190000620/mengenal-kebaya-encim-busana-yang-identik-dengan-perempuan-betawi|access-date=2021-02-04|website=KOMPAS.com|date=25 October 2018|language=id}}</ref> thus it is no longer worn solely by [[Chinese Indonesians]], but also by local Betawi people. It marked differently from Javanese kebaya with its smaller and finer embroidery, lighter fabrics and more vibrant colors, made from imported materials such as silk and other fine fabrics. The encim kebaya fit well with vibrant-colored kain [[Batik#Coastal batik (batik pesisiran)|batik pesisiran]] (Javan coastal batik).<ref name="Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya"/>

It was this ''encim'' kebaya from coastal north Java, together with vibrant coloured Javanese coastal ''batik pesisir'' that has been exported to [[Straits Settlements]] of [[Singapore]] and [[Penang]] since colonial times in the 19th century, thus created the kebaya wearing culture among nyonyas of [[Peranakan Chinese]] in the Malay peninsula. The light and vibrant coloured ''encim'' kebaya has become the traditional dress of [[overseas Chinese]] ladies in the archipelago, from coastal Java to Sumatran port cities such as Medan, also Singapore, Malacca and Penang, and considered suitable for tropical climate of Southeast Asia.<ref name="CNN-Kebaya">{{Cite web|last=Juniman|first=Puput Tripeni|title=Kebaya Encim, Buah Hasil Lebur Budaya Peranakan|url=https://www.cnnindonesia.com/gaya-hidup/20170127200705-277-189574/kebaya-encim-buah-hasil-lebur-budaya-peranakan|access-date=2021-02-04|website=gaya hidup|language=id}}</ref>

====Modern kebaya====

For decades kebaya has inspired Indonesian [[fashion designers]] in their works. Indonesian fashion designers such as [[Anne Avantie]], Adjie Notonegoro, [[Oscar Lawalata]] and [[Obin (designer)|Obin]] are known has experimented and created contemporary design of modern kebayas.<ref name ="50 Kebaya">{{Cite web|title=50 Inspirasi Model Kebaya|url=http://readerchoice.detik.com/modelkebaya|access-date=2021-03-10|website=wolipop detik.com}}</ref>

In term of design, the new category of "modern kebaya" itself is quite a broadly identified, since they can be inspired by Indonesian traditional kebaya, combined with foreign influences and designs, or made entirely in new modern fashion ideas.<ref name ="Kumampung">{{Cite web|first=Dian Reinis |last=Kumampung|date=2020-03-12|title=Pesona 6 Puteri Indonesia dalam Balutan Kebaya Anne Avantie |url=https://lifestyle.kompas.com/read/2020/03/12/122234020/pesona-6-puteri-indonesia-dalam-balutan-kebaya-anne-avantie|access-date=2021-03-10|website=KOMPAS.com|language=id}}</ref> The modern kebaya may experimented with the collar cuts, the length of sleeves; with some has only one sleeve or no sleeves at all, the use fabrics and its patterns such as applying [[polka dot]]s pattern, combining them with short skirts or pants, etc.<ref name ="50 Kebaya"/>

===Varieties in Malaysia===
==== Kebaya Melayu/ Kebaya Labuh/ Kebaya Panjang/ Baju Belah ====
[[File:Image from page 218 of "Women of all nations, a record of their characteristics, habits, manners, customs and influence;" (1908) (14583575210).jpg|thumb|right|A [[Kelantanese Malay people|Kelantanese Malay]] woman with children in traditional Malay kebaya]]
Although Malay women are famous for their [[Baju Kurung]], kebaya sometimes is also being worn for both formal or informal occasions. The ''kebaya panjang'' is a knee-length, long-sleeved blouse, worn over a sarong. It is often elaborately embroidered with floral motifs on the cuffs and the front lapel, with a neckline that is usually V-shaped.<ref name="MuziumBrunei"/> ''Kebaya panjang'' resembles ''baju kurung'' in many ways. The only differentiation is it splits and fits in front of the dress, secured with ''kerongsang'' brooch. The original ''kebaya panjang'' was designed to reach the ankle, only an inch from the bottom of the sarong, with sleeves that were wide and long.<ref name = "Annette"/>

Another variety of the ''kebaya panjang'' is known as the ''kebaya labuh''. This kebaya is a loose-fitting long blouse, worn with an undergarment known as ''baju pontong''. The dress is designed with several small buttons as fasteners. Both ''kebaya panjang'' and ''kebaya labuh'' do not accentuate the shape of the body of the wearer as compared to the other Kebaya, namely ''kebaya nyonya''. This style of kebaya is commonly worn by Malay women in [[Malaysia]], [[Singapore]] and [[Brunei]] and are cherished by society<ref name ="Zarina">{{cite web|url=https://www.springerprofessional.de/en/malay-kebaya-the-history-and-influences-of-other-silhoutte/17703380|title=Malay Kebaya: The History and Influences of Other Silhoutte|publisher=Springer Singapore|last=Zarina Yusof|access-date=31 January 2021}}</ref> as recent trends show that this dress is becoming more popular, although it is normally worn by older women.<ref name="MuziumBrunei"/>

Back in the old days, kebaya was considered common everyday wear for Malay women besides ''baju kurung'', although the latter is more popular.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Baju kurung still a popular choice for many|url=https://www.thestar.com.my/travel/malaysia/2012/08/17/baju-kurung-still-a-popular-choice-for-many/|access-date=2021-03-06|website=www.thestar.com.my |date=17 August 2012 }}</ref> However, the status has changed as it is now worn mostly to formal events and weddings.<ref name ="Zarina"/> Still, this style of Malay kebaya continues to grow according to time with its characteristics of a split at the front that is covered with buttons or brooches still remains. In term of fabric choice, Malay kebaya is usually made of traditional textiles like [[Tenun Pahang Diraja|tenun]] or [[songket]].<ref name="Haziyah"/>

==== Kebaya Riau Pahang/ Kebaya Turki ====
In Pahang, the local style kebaya is known as ''kebaya Riau Pahang'' or sometimes also known as Turkish kebaya. The difference between this style of kebaya and other kebayas is that it has a buttoned ''[[baju kurung]]'' "cekak musang"-like collar.<ref name ="Aziz"/> ''Kebaya Riau Pahang'' is believed to have existed since the era of [[Johor Sultanate|Johor-Riau-Lingga-Pahang]] in the 19th century or even earlier, during the time of [[Malacca Sultanate]] by researchers.<ref name="Haziyah"/> It is not just a dress, it is also a sign of the good relationship between the [[Sultanate of Pahang|Pahang]] and [[Sultanate of Riau-Lingga|Riau-Lingga]] in the past.<ref name ="Phromsuthirak"/>  ''Kebaya Riau Pahang'' is also said to have originated from Turkey shaped-like robe where the dress extends to the level of the ankle and splits in front. It was said that [[Abu Bakar of Johor]] and his family often visited Turkey for a long vacation, from there the ''kebaya Turki'' was inspired.<ref name="Haziyah"/>

Nevertheless, western influence can also be seen in modern wearers where the dress and the level of the sleeves have been shortened. This style of kebaya is usually made of locally produced [[Tenun Pahang Diraja|Pahang woven]] fabric or [[songket]]. The difference in the status of the wearer is shown by the number of buttons, where the number seven and nine, decorated with semi-precious stones used to reserved for Pahang nobility.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dirajapahang.my/portaldiraja/?page_id=1219|title=Busana|access-date=13 March 2021}}</ref>''Kebaya Riau Pahang'' is usually worn with ''ombak mengalun'' style sarong with the ''kepala'' of the ''kain'' at the back, similar to the ''baju kurung''.<ref name="Haziyah"/> The status of the wearers can also be seen by the wearing of jewellery on the chest and scarf on the shoulder.<ref name="JenisKebaya"/>

==== Kebaya Selangor ====
Selangor also has its own kebaya. ''Kebaya Selangor'' is the result of assimilation through the marriages between the Selangor royal family with their relatives of Perak and Kedah royal families as well as Bugis traditions of Sulawesi.<ref name="KebayaSelangor1"/> In Selangor, the use of long and loose kebaya dress has been seen worn when doing daily activities as well as attending weddings since the beginning of the 19th century and spread throughout the districts of Selangor. It is also known as "The Malay Dress", matched with [[sarong]] cloth made from ''[[songket]]'', [[batik]] or Bugis woven fabric, with the ''kepala'' of the sarong at the front. It shares the same characteristics as a kebaya but has a straight and lower hemline that usually reaches below the knees. The kebaya is also looser at the waistline than the ordinary kebaya and has four pleats in front. It is folded slightly around the neck and pinned with a ''kerongsang'' brooch.<ref name="KebayaSelangor1">{{Cite web|url=https://selangorkini.my/2021/01/kebaya-busana-rentas-zaman/|title=Kebaya busana rentas zaman|website=SelangorKini|date=19 January 2021|language=ms|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref>

''Kebaya Selangor'' is matched with ''songket'', batik or Bugis woven fabric, according to the ability or status of the wearer. There is indeed a difference in the fabric material used by the people as compared to the royal family. A cotton cloth that is matched with batik cloth or Bugis weaving was usually worn by the Selangor nobility while ''songket'' is only worn by the bride and groom. Nowadays, the use of ''kebaya Selangor'' has been varied according to the taste of the wearer. This style of kebaya was once displayed by [[Michelle Yeoh]] when attending the Datukship ceremony<ref name="KebayaSelangor2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.thestar.com.my/news/community/2012/05/03/selangors-own-kebaya/|title=Selangor's own kebaya|website=The Star|date=3 May 2012 |language=en|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref><ref name="JenisKebaya"/> of Sultan [[Azlan Shah of Perak|Azlan Shah]], the [[Sultan]] of [[Perak]], in recognition of the fame she brought to the state.<ref>{{cite journal|date=4 May 2001 |url=http://www.asiaweek.com/asiaweek/magazine/nations/0,8782,107705,00.html |title=Just Call Me Datuk |journal=Asiaweek |volume=27 |issue=17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20010509015254/http://www.asiaweek.com/asiaweek/magazine/nations/0%2C8782%2C107705%2C00.html |archive-date=9 May 2001 |issn=1012-6244 |access-date=3 February 2021 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==== Kebaya Setengah Tiang====
[[File:CO 1069-555-35 (7937605180) 02.jpg|thumb|upright| A Malay woman from Kuching, Sarawak wearing kebaya and kain dagang]]
''Kebaya setengah tiang'' is a traditional attire of Negeri Sembilan. It is known as "setengah tiang" (half-mast) because it is a little longer than a short kebaya, but not as long as a long kebaya. This style of kebaya has its origins from ''kebaya panjang''. The ''kebaya panjang'' was shortened to make it easier and comfortable for women to move while carrying out daily activities at home or outside. In the past, it was often used by women when they were at home, working in the fields or attending wedding ceremonies. Normally, it is paired with [[batik]] [[sarong]]. In the early 1950s, this style of kebaya was very popular and often styled at public gatherings. It has a ''pola potongan sembilan'', the hem of the blouse is straight and the front of the dress looks like a long kebaya. Differs from other kebayas, ''kebaya setengah tiang'' has bell-sleeves.<ref name ="KebayaN9"/>

The significant difference between formal and informal occasions is the choice of fabric materials used. For daily activities like working in the field, the kebaya is usually made of cotton cloth with flower motifs while for attending weddings, it is made of more expensive fabrics such as brocade, gauze, or woven [[songket]] of gold and silver thread. Women who style ''kebaya setengah tiang'' will often use ''kerongsang'' brooches, ''dokoh'' or necklaces as accessories as well as a headdress known as ''telepok''.<ref name ="KebayaN9">{{Cite book|last=Zakaria|first=Alias|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=iwvyDwAAQBAJ&q=kebaya+setengah+tiang&pg=PA16|title=Busana Tradisional Negeri Sembilan (UUM Press)|date=2017|publisher=UUM Press|isbn=9789672210191|language=ms}}</ref>

====Kebaya Perlis====
''Kebaya Perlis'' was very popular during the reign of Raja Syed Alwi in the 1930s where it was worn by the Perlis royal family and the state aristocrats for public gatherings and special occasions. This style of kebaya is not only comfortable to wear but also symbolises the identity and modesty of Malay women. ''Kebaya Perlis'' does not show the shape of the body and is suitable to be worn at work and official functions. One of the special features of the ''kebaya Perlis'' is that it is sewn from a whole piece of cloth without any stitches at the shoulders.

If seen from the front view, ''kebaya Perlis'' is similar to the shape of other kebayas but if seen from the rearview, it looks like a kebaya that has the same gussets as a ''[[baju kurung]]'' with no stitch on the shoulders. The size of ''kebaya Perlis'' is also loose, which make it suitable for people of plus size. In the past, it was made mainly using ''Kasa Rubia'' fabric as [[songket]] was totally prohibited except for the brides and royal families. Since the fabric was not easily available anymore, chiffon and songket fabric were made common.<ref name ="KebayaPerlis1">{{Cite book|url=https://issuu.com/jkkngov/docs/buletin_2019-final_compressed__final_sc|title=CITRA BUDAYA JKKN BIL. 2/2019 |date=2019|publisher=Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara|language=ms}}</ref>

Similar to other kebayas, ''kebaya Perlis'' also uses a decorative ''kerongsang'' brooch on the front fold of the blouse to secure the dress, often inserted diagonally. There are two versions of how to wear ''kebaya Perlis''. The first style is by securing the folded front of the blouse with a brooch decoration while the other style is by stacking the front without folding it and secured it with a brooch decoration.<ref name="KebayaPerlis2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.thestar.com.my/metro/metro-news/2020/11/05/bringing-back---kebaya-perlis|title=Bringing back Kebaya Perlis|website=The Star|date=5 November 2020 |language=en|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref>

==== Kebaya Kota Bharu ====
Apart from being famous as Cik [[Siti Wan Kembang]]'s style of clothing, Kelantan also has another popular traditional attire, namely ''kebaya Kota Bharu''.<ref name ="Phromsuthirak"/> Named ''kebaya Kota Bharu'' because this style of kebaya is widely worn by women in [[Kota Bharu]] and the state of [[Kelantan]] as a whole.<ref name="Haziyah"/> The difference between the ''kebaya Kota Bharu'' and other kebayas is that it has an extra fabric known as ''lidah baju'' that connects the left and right side of the kebaya at the front of the kebaya. Differs from other kebayas, it does not need to be fastened with ''kerongsang'' but with snap fasteners that were sewed at the ''lidah baju''. This style of kebaya is also known as ''kebaya bandung'' and might have been originated from kebaya Kutu Baru from Java.<ref name ="Aziz">{{Cite book|last=Aziz|first=Azah|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MWlFCQAAQBAJ&q=kebaya+malaysia&pg=PA108|title=Rupa & rupa gaya busana Melayu|date=2006|publisher=Penerbit Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia|isbn=9789679427554|language=ms}}</ref><ref name="JenisKebaya"/> During the 1950s, ''kebaya Kota Bharu'' was very popular among women in Kelantan, where it is also known as ''baju potong medan''. This style of kebaya has been modified into fashion icons with a various combination style of ''kebaya Kota Bharu'' and [[sarong]] exists.

==== Kebaya Saloma====
[[File:Malaysia Airlines crew.jpg|thumb|A Malaysia Airlines flight attendant wearing a kebaya inspired by [[Saloma]]]]
[[Saloma]] can be considered as the main trigger of the fashion and style trends of Malayan women in the 1950s and 1960s since appearing as a singer and actress of many adored Malay films.<ref name="Saloma">{{Cite web|url=https://www.bharian.com.my/wanita/fesyen/2017/08/313080/saloma-dapat-jolokan-marilyn-monroe-east|title=Saloma dapat jolokan 'Marilyn Monroe of The East'|website=BeritaHarian|date=16 August 2017|language=ms|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref> Saloma was a trendsetter. During the 1950s in which the Malays gripped firmly to the Asian values, Saloma occurs in a dress "alien" to the conservative Malay community at the time where she popularized western-style tights, body and chest revealing dresses with cuts across the shoulders.<ref name="JenisKebaya"/> She started the tight-fitting "kebaya ketat" style, also known as "kebaya Saloma" with its wide neck and low back.<ref name="Saloma"/>

Details such as a front open slit on the sarong or a low-back tight-fitting kebaya were also popular even though would probably have not passed the Malay modesty standard these days. There are several examples of Saloma style kebaya, made from sheer polyester fabric, that she would wear over a black corset and paired with tight-fitting sarongs. This classic "kebaya Saloma" is not only becoming a staple for Malayan women at the time but also became an inspiration for the flight attendants of [[Malaysia Airlines]] (MAS) and [[Singapore Airlines]] (SIA).<ref name="Saloma"/>

==== Kebaya Nyonya/ Kebaya Sulam ====
[[File:Kebaya 1.jpg|thumb|320px|A group of women posing in the traditional [[Peranakan]] Nyonya kebaya]]
In the straits settlements of [[Malacca]], [[Penang]] and [[Singapore]], a different style of kebaya also exists, usually worn by those of [[Peranakan]] and Chinese ancestry.<ref name ="Datin">{{Cite book|last=Seri|first=Datin|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NTvRAgAAQBAJ&q=kebaya+malaysia|title=Nyonya Kebaya: A Century of Straits Chinese Costume|date=2012|publisher=Tuttle Publishing|isbn=9781462906918|language=en}}</ref> The Nyonya kebaya is famous for the use of lace and elaborate embroidery techniques<ref name ="Datin"/> that is traditionally worn with matching jewelleries and a pair of hand-beaded shoes.<ref name ="Koh"/> The Nyonya kebaya is a tighter-fitting sheer embroidered blouse that is traditionally paired with a batik sarong either drawn by hand or machine-printed.

The styles of Nyonya kebaya can be classified into three main periods, each style has a design that is connected with the fashion and technology trends at that moment. The three styles of Nyonya kebaya are ''kebaya renda'', ''kebaya biku'' and ''kebaya sulam''. ''Kebaya renda'', the earliest Nyonya kebaya uses lace, ''kebaya biku'', an improved version of ''kebaya renda'' uses embroidery only at the hem of the dress while the ''kebaya sulam'' is the quintessential Nyonya kebaya that we know today.<ref name ="kebayaNyonya2"/> Among popular embroidery motifs for ''kebaya sulam'' include flowers, butterflies, phoenixes, dragons and insects. The sarong on the other hand often uses hand-drawn batik cloths from Java.<ref name ="Infopedia"/>

Being semi-transparent, the Nyonya kebaya is usually worn over a camisole and secured at the front by a set of three interlinked ''kerongsang'' brooches. The traditional Nyonya kebaya outfit is completed with decorative accessories such as a ''cucuk sanggul'' hairpin, a silver ''pending'' belt for securing the sarong, as well as a pair of ''kasut manik'' beaded slippers. Traditionally, there also exists a kebaya that is worn specifically for mourning, known as ''kebaya tuaha''. The colour of ''kebaya tuaha'' represents the different stages of a mourning period.<ref name ="kebayaNyonya2">{{Cite web|last=Mohammad |first=Hidayah|title=Cantik berkebaya, tapi awas! Jangan sembarang pakai|website=Berita Harian|date=24 August 2019| url=https://www.bharian.com.my/wanita/fesyen/2019/08/599481/cantik-berkebaya-tapi-awas-jangan-sembarang-pakai|access-date=2021-03-10}}</ref>

Some resources claim that Nyonya kebaya originated from [[Java]], [[Medan]] or [[Surabaya]].<ref>{{Cite web|last=Koh|first=Jaime|title=Nonya kebaya| work=Singapore Infopedia|url=https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_173744.html|access-date=2021-02-05}}</ref> Conversely, there are some writers who claim that Penang or Malacca was indeed the origin of the Nyonya Kebaya, having adopted the dress independently.<ref name ="Datin"/> Nevertheless, similar Nyonya Kebaya can also be found in [[Phuket]] and Medan, where they shared the similar Peranakan culture.<ref name ="Koh">{{Cite book|last=Koh|first=Jaime|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MWlFCQAAQBAJ&q=kebaya+malaysia&pg=PA108| title=Culture and Customs of Singapore and Malaysia Cultures and Customs of the World|date=2009|publisher=ABC-CLIO|isbn=9780313351167|language=en}}</ref>

==== Kebaya Chetti====
The use of kebaya and sarong in Chetti Melaka culture shows the influence of the Baba and Nyonya which had started to use the dress in the 1920s and 1930s. There are some differences between the kebaya worn by Indian and Chinese Peranakan. The Chetti women are generally more conservative, in favour of opaque material for their kebaya, compared to Nyonya kebaya which prefers semi-transparent fabric. It also tends to be plainer, with fine or no embroidery at all.<ref name="JenisKebaya"/>

This style of kebaya is also different from the Malay kebaya. Kebaya wore by Chetti women often have the form of a deduction 'V' neck while the kebaya wore by Malay women usually straight down.<ref name="KebayaChetti">{{Cite web|url=http://www.theinsiderarchived.com/opinion/uthaya-sankar/article/pakaian-chetti-melaka/pakaian-chetti-melaka|title=Pakaian Chetti Melaka|website=The Malaysian Insider|language=ms|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref> This style of kebaya is also worn with three brooches in various shapes and patterns as well as a pair of ''kasut manik'' to complete the look for more formal occasions.<ref name="KebayaChetti"/>

Nevertheless, the Chetti women would wear the sarong kebaya just as the Peranakan Chinese would, incorporating Indian elements such as a ''thali'', ''pottu'' as well as a gold chain for married women. The wearing of kebaya on Deepavali morning has also become a cultural practice among Chetti community, a tradition passed for generations.<ref name="KebayaChetti2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.freemalaysiatoday.com/category/nation/2019/10/26/its-a-kain-and-kebaya-deepavali-for-melaka-chetties/|title=It's a kain and kebaya Deepavali for Melaka Chetties|website=Free Malaysia Today|date=26 October 2019 |language=en|access-date=2021-03-10}}</ref>

==== Kebaya Jawi Pekan====
In [[Penang]], apart from being popular with Nyonya kebaya, there is also a style of kebaya from the [[Jawi Peranakan|Jawi Pekan]], the locally born Malay-speaking Muslims of mixed Indian, Malay as well as Arab ancestry.<ref name ="JawiPekan">{{Cite book|last=Yusoff|first=Omar|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pK2pDQAAQBAJ&q=jawi+peranakan+kebaya|title=Jawi Peranakan di Pulau Pinang|date=2010|publisher=Penerbit USM|isbn=9789674610869|language=ms}}</ref> The Jawi Pekan community is very similar to the [[Malaysian Indians|Mamak]] community but can be distinguished through their names, facial features, as well as the Malay dialect used. There are subtle differences in cut and design that distinguish the kebaya of Jawi Pekan from that of Mamak.

The Jawi Pekan generally prefers kebaya that is made of lace with decorated sequins while Mamak prefers kebaya that is made of sari cloth that was directly imported from India.<ref name="JenisKebaya">{{Cite web|url=https://www.alaf21.com.my/info-Artikel/584/Jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-malaysia|title=Jenis-jenis kebaya di malaysia|website=Alaf21|language=ms|access-date=2021-02-02}}</ref> The choice of material is largely influenced by the historical ties between the Jawi Pekan with their colonial heritage and the Indian Muslims with India. Among the Jawi Pekan community, a married woman will usually wear a long kebaya while unmarried women will often opt for the short kebaya. Women from this community are often seen wearing matching colours for their clothes.

==== Kebaya Kristang====
There are two types of kebayas among the [[Kristang people|Kristang]] community in [[Malacca]], namely the ''kebaya kompridu'' and the ''dabaia kurtu''.<ref name ="KebayaKristang">{{Cite book|last=Sarkissian|first=Margaret|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fRHYk6Izi0IC&q=kebaya+kristang|title=D'Albuquerque's Children: Performing Tradition in Malaysia's Portuguese Settlement|date=2000|publisher=University of Chicago Press|isbn=9780226734989|language=en}}</ref> During the early 16th century, the Portuguese settlers married local Malay women. With this maternal influence, Kristang women also wore the ''kebaya panjang'' and the sarong kebaya. Nevertheless, kristang dancers continue to wear traditional Portuguese dance costumes for performances. ''Kebaya kompridu'' means long kebaya while ''dabaia kurtu'' means short kebaya. ''Kebaya kompridu'' is considered as the traditional formal dress for special occasions while the latter is usually worn by the younger generation.<ref name = "Pillai"/>

The difference between these two forms of dress lies in the blouse. ''Kebaya kompridu'' is a three-quarter-length blouse while the blouse used with sarong kebaya is short. Both kebayas are fastened with a set of three gold ''kerongsang'' pins and are worn over a ''saias'', a [[sarong]], similar to the other kebayas. For weddings, the bride may also opt to wear a white kebaya and ''saias'' with an elaborate golden headdress and ornate necklace. Both forms of kebaya show Malaysian origin and link the women of the Portuguese Settlement to their neighbours of [[Peranakans|Baba Nyonya]] and [[Chitty|Chetti Melaka]] rather than the continental Portuguese.<ref name = "Pillai"/>

==== Kebaya Cocos/ Kebayak and Baskat ====
The [[Cocos Malays]] of Sabah also have their own traditional style of kebaya, believed to have been influenced by their Javanese ancestors. They were originally from the [[Cocos (Keeling) Islands|Cocos Islands]] who settled in Sabah in the 1950s. Along with them, they brought their unique blend of English-Scottish traditions and Malay cultural practices.

When attending weddings, ceremonies or performing traditional dances, Cocos Malay females are often dressed in ''kebayak'', a type of kebaya with a frill collar influenced by the European style of clothing in the 1600s. ''Kebayak'' is worn over a white corset and kain sarong. The front of the ''kebayak'' is fastened with ''kerongsang'' brooch, similar to other kebayas.<ref name = "KebayaCocos">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eHJgDwAAQBAJ&q=cocos+malay+clothing| editor=Rusmadiah Anwar|title=Proceedings of the Art and Design International Conference (AnDIC 2016)|year=2018| publisher=Springer|isbn=9789811304873}}</ref>

There is not much difference between ''kebayak'' and ''baskat'', the kebaya-like dress worn by the Cocos Malay males during performing traditional dances. The male ''baskat'' designs are almost identical to the woman ''kebayak'', but is made shorter and worn along with a ''sabok'', a belt. A ''sabok'' functioned as a belt to fasten the sarong as well as an accessory to the attire. The attire is then completed with a songkok pinned with flowers and black leather shoes.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.scribd.com/document/391450338/Busana-Pakaian-Tradisi-Suku-Kaum-Cocos|title=Busana Pakaian Tradisi Suku Kaum Cocos|access-date=3 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DZ8ugmimU1QC&q=kebaya+cocos|title=Wacana kurator Jabatan Muzium Malaysia|date=2011|publisher=Jabatan Muzium Malaysia|isbn=9789670372020|language=ms}}</ref>

For weddings, the bride needs to wear a blue ''kebayak'' and three ''sabok'' to fasten the sarong, usually in blue, red and yellow. The wedding dress then completed with a yellow ''selendang'' that is tied at the upper torso of the bride. The colour blue and yellow are the official colours of ''Jukong'' where the blue represents loyalty and the ocean and the yellow represents cheerfulness within the community.<ref name = "KebayaCocos"/>

==== Kuyu Kebaya ====
As one of the indigenous tribes of Borneo, the [[Murut people|Murut]] community also has a unique kebaya-like traditional dress known as ''kuyu kebaya''. This dress is made of black coloured velvet fabric and can be divided into two parts, the kebaya and the [[sarong]]. In the past, the kebaya was made plain, however, according to change of time, the kebaya is now made with additional stitches of colourful fine beads or with sequins designed with traditional tribal motifs like flower, leaves or bamboo shoots. Kebaya with decorated beads is usually worn by married women. The colours of the beads are usually white, yellow, red and green while the colours of the sequins are usually more colourful, preferred by the younger generation.

This style of kebaya is also worn by the female dancers during traditional performances at wedding or festivals. ''Kuyu kebaya'' usually worn with other traditional accessories like ''peta uluh'', a traditional headdress, or ''siraung'', a traditional hat made with decorated beads as well as a belt, necklaces, bracelets and anklet made with decorated beads.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.pelitabrunei.gov.bn/Lists/Rencana/NewDisplayForm.aspx?ID=539&ContentTypeId=0x0100AB69AA555002494AB2FB40905279B027|title=Kuyu Kebaya Pakaian Tradisi Murut Brunei|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>

==== Kebarung ====
Kebarung is a combination of the acronyms of "kebaya" and "[[Baju Kurung|Kurung]]". This style of clothing originated from [[Selangor]] and was very popular in the early 1990s throughout Malaysia.<ref name="Haziyah"/> Its popularity is mainly credited to its loose and long top which is preferred by the more conservative Malays. It is considered to be both modest and elegant at the same time. Traditionally, textiles such as [[songket]], [[cotton]]s, and woven fabric were frequently used but imported silk or other textiles may also be used instead. The common accessory is ''dokoh'', a piece of jewellery with three brooches made of tin, gold, or silver. Among the local artists who have been fashion icons of kebarung are [[Ziana Zain]] and [[Erra Fazira]].<ref name="JenisKebaya"/>

==Political significance==
[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM In juni 1950 organiseerde de leiding van de KOWANI (Kongres Wanita Indonesia) in Djakarta een congres dat door alle afdelingen in Indonesië werd bijgewoond TMnr 10000216.jpg|thumb|left|260px|[[Sukarno]] among Indonesian women in kebaya during Indonesian Women Congress, 1950]]
In [[List of Japanese-run internment camps during World War II|WWII internment camps]] of the [[Japanese occupation of the Dutch East Indies]], Indonesian female prisoners refused to wear the Western dress allocated to them and instead wore kebaya as a display of nationalist and racial solidarity to separate them from fellow Chinese, Europeans and Eurasian inmates.<ref>Cattoni ''Reading The Kebaya'' paper was presented to the 15th Biennial Conference of the Asian Studies Association of Australia in Canberra 29 June-2 July 2004: 8</ref> In fact, the only woman present during [[Proclamation of Indonesian Independence]], Dutch-educated activist [[S. K. Trimurti]] wore kebaya, cementing it as the female dress of nationalism.

After the [[Independence of Indonesia]] in 1945, Indonesia's first president, [[Sukarno]] has chosen kebaya as the [[National costume of Indonesia|national attire]] for Indonesian women.<ref name="GNFI-Kebaya"/><ref>{{Cite web|title=Sejarah di Balik Terpilihnya Kebaya sebagai Kostum Nasional|url=http://www.dewimagazine.com/news/sejarah-di-balik-terpilihnya-kebaya-sebagai-kostum-nasional|access-date=2021-02-05|website=www.dewimagazine.com|language=id}}</ref> Subsequently, kebaya is encouraged to be worn by Indonesian first ladies, the wives of state officials, and also common Indonesian women during official functions and events. Kebayas as the national attire of Indonesian women were often featured by Indonesian first ladies. [[Fatmawati]] and [[Dewi Sukarno]], the wives of [[Sukarno]], Indonesia's first president, were known to wear kebaya every day. Subsequently, it has become a norm for [[First Spouses of Indonesia|Indonesian first ladies]] to wear kebaya on formal occasions.

Nevertheless, the more democratic consensus of kebaya as the national attire actually took place in 1978. The determination of Indonesia's national dress originated from a 1978 conference and workshop in Jakarta, which was attended by representatives of all [[Provinces of Indonesia|provinces in Indonesia]]. In this workshop, fashion and cultural observers gathered to determine one national dress of the republic. From many types of clothing in Indonesia, at that time, there were four candidates for the national dress, namely ''[[kemben]]'', kebaya, ''[[baju kurung]]'', and ''[[Bodo blouse|baju bodo]]''.

[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Mevrouw Soekarno in het Merdeka Paleis te Djakarta in gesprek met de sporters die Indonesië vertegenwoordigden op de Aziatische Olympiade in New Delhi TMnr 10017925.jpg|thumb|240px|[[Fatmawati|Fatmawati Sukarno]], Indonesian first lady in kebaya with Indonesian athletes for the [[1951 Asian Games|Asian Games in New Delhi]] (1951)]]
At that time ''kemben'' was most strongly associated with Java, ''baju kurung'' with Sumatra and Kalimantan and ''baju bodo'' with Sulawesi and eastern Indonesia. Kebaya is considered the most neutral and commonly accepted candidate. It has always been a part of people's lives in every region in Indonesia for ages, even during the colonial era, the early independence era to the modern era. Thus, it has become the official national attire of Indonesia,<ref name="CNN-Kebaya Busana Nasional">{{Cite web|last=tim|title=Jalan Kebaya Terpilih Jadi Busana Nasional Indonesia|url=https://www.cnnindonesia.com/gaya-hidup/20190815162917-277-421669/jalan-kebaya-terpilih-jadi-busana-nasional-indonesia|access-date=2021-02-05|date=18 August 2019|website=CNN Indonesia|language=id}}</ref> and one of the country's national identities.<ref name="LIPI-Kebaya"/>

The [[Suharto]]-era bureaucrat wives' social organisation ''Dharma Wanita'' wears a uniform of gold kebaya, with a red sash (''selendang'') and stamped batik pattern on the ''kain'' unique to ''Dharma Wanita''. The late Indonesian first lady and also a minor aristocrat [[Siti Hartinah]] was a prominent advocate of the kebaya.

Former President [[Megawati Sukarnoputri]] is a public champion of kebaya and wears fine red kebaya whenever possible in public forums and [[2009 Indonesian presidential election|2009 presidential election]] debates.

The 21st of April is celebrated in Indonesia as National Kartini Day where [[Kartini]], the female suffragist and education advocate, is remembered by schoolgirls wearing traditional dress according to their region. In Java, Bali and Sunda, it is the kebaya.<ref name="ReferenceA">Jill Forshee, ''Culture and customs of Indonesia'', Greenwood Publishing Group, 2006. {{ISBN|0-313-33339-4}}, 237 pages</ref>

==Modern usage and innovations==
[[File:Raden Roro Ayu Maulida Putri With Zozibini Tunzi.jpg|thumb|left|260px|[[Puteri Indonesia|Puteri Indonesia 2020]] ([[Miss Universe 2020|Miss Universe Indonesia 2020]]), [[Ayu Maulida|Raden Roro Ayu Maulida Putri]] together with [[Miss Universe 2019]], [[Zozibini Tunzi]] of [[South Africa]] wearing Indonesian modern kebaya]]
Kebaya has been an important part of oriental style clothing that heavily influenced the world of modern fashion. Lace dresses are one of the best examples of Kebaya influence.

Apart from traditional kebaya, fashion designers are looking into ways of modifying the design and making kebaya a more fashionable outfit. Casual designed kebaya can even be worn with jeans or skirts. For weddings or formal events, many designers are exploring other types of fine fabrics like laces to create a bridal kebaya.
[[File:Garuda Indonesia Flight Attendants New Costumes 2010 Cropped.jpg|thumb|right|120px|[[Garuda Indonesia]] flight attendant uniform in kebaya and kain [[batik]]]]
Modern-day kebaya now incorporate modern tailoring innovations such as clasps, zippers and buttons zippers, being a much appreciated addition for ladies' that promptly need a toilet break, without requiring being literally unwrapped by a helper—to the extent the true traditional kain is near unanimously rejected. Other modern innovations have included the blouse ''baju kebaya'' worn without the restrictive kemben, and even the kebaya blouse worn with slacks or made of the fabric usually for the ''kain panjang''. The female flight attendants of [[Malaysia Airlines]] and [[Singapore Airlines]] also feature batik kebaya as their uniforms.

The female uniform of [[Garuda Indonesia]] flight attendants is a more authentic modern interpretation. The kebaya is designed in simple yet classic Kartini-style kebaya derived from 19th century kebaya of Javanese noblewomen. The kebaya made from fire-proof cotton-polyester fabrics, with [[batik]] sarongs in ''parang'' or ''lereng gondosuli'' motif, which also incorporate [[garuda]] wing motifs and small dots representing [[jasmine]].<ref>[http://female.kompas.com/read/xml/2010/09/26/11502730/terbang.bersama.kebaya Kompas Female Terbang Bersama Kebaya]</ref>

In 2019, there is a surge of ''kebaya'' popularity among modern Indonesian women. At [[Jakarta MRT|MRT stations]] in [[Jakarta]], a number of kebaya enthusiasts campaigned to promote kebaya as an everyday fashion for work as well as for casual clothing on weekend. The movement sought to make wearing kebaya the norm among Indonesian women.<ref name="JP-Kebaya">{{Cite web|url=https://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2019/06/25/women-promote-kebaya-wearing-at-mrt-station.html|title=Women promote 'kebaya' wearing at MRT station|website=The Jakarta Post|language=en|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref> After quite a long time losing to compete with Western and Muslim fashion, kebaya saw a revival in 2019 in Indonesia, as rising numbers of kebaya enthusiasts proudly don the kebaya in public space. Kebaya began to come out of its "cultural cage"—namely wedding receptions and other traditional events—to public places. Kebaya is starting to appear again in government and private offices, at bus stops, commuter train stations, Transjakarta shelters, in cafes, and malls in Jakarta and other areas. During ''[[Hari Kemerdekaan]]'' (independence day) ceremony on 17 August 2019 in [[Merdeka Palace]], kebaya being proudly worn by VVIP and elites of Indonesian society; namely from first lady, female state ministers, to the wives of state officials and distinguished guests.<ref>{{Cite web|date=28 August 2019|title=Disrupsi Budaya di Balik Keindahan Kebaya|url=https://indonesia.go.id/ragam/budaya/kebudayaan/disrupsi-budaya-di-balik-keindahan-kebaya|access-date=5 February 2021|website=indonesia.go.id}}</ref>

Currently, Indonesia is making efforts for kebaya to be recognised as an [[UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists|Intangible Cultural Heritage]] to the [[UNESCO]]. There are some efforts to return the kebaya to its honorable place as Indonesia's fashion icon; by urging Indonesian women to wear kebaya for daily use.<ref name="Harsianti">{{Cite news|first=Juliana|last=Harsianti|title=Returning to kebaya as Indonesia's fashion icon|url=https://www.thejakartapost.com/life/2017/04/27/returning-to-kebaya-as-indonesias-fashion-icon.html|access-date=2021-03-10|website=The Jakarta Post|language=en}}</ref> Efforts including "''Selasa Berkebaya''" (Tuesday Kebaya) movement among Indonesian women to popularise the daily use of kebaya.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2019/07/04/selasaberkebaya-movement-aims-to-promote-kebaya-as-daily-outfit.html|title=#SelasaBerkebaya movement aims to promote 'kebaya' as daily outfit|website=The Jakarta Post|language=en|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref> However, some conservative Islamic clerics have condemned the movement as a "veiled apostasy", aimed to demote the use of [[hijab]] among Indonesian Muslim women.<ref>{{cite web |title=Saat Gerakan Berkebaya Dituduh Agenda Permurtadan Terselubung |url=https://tirto.id/ef6G |access-date=15 August 2019 |publisher=Tirto.id |language=id}}</ref> Indeed, some suggested that the kebaya-wearing movement is actually a counter-action against the increasing conservatism and [[Arabization]] within Indonesian society, that warily saw the increase of [[niqāb]]-wearing among local women.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://serikatnews.com/puisi-sukmawati-gerakan-keadilan-budaya/|title=Puisi Sukmawati Gerakan Keadilan budaya|last=Latumahina|first=Jeannie|date=2018-04-04|website=Media Kritis Anak Bangsa|language=id|access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref> In December 2024, the kebaya was recognised as part of UNESCO's Intangible Heritage list as part of a joint submission by Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Kebaya inscribed onto UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list |url=https://www.channelnewsasia.com/singapore/kebaya-inscribed-unesco-intangible-cultural-heritage-list-4786996 |access-date=2024-12-12 |website=CNA |language=en}}</ref>

''Kebaya'' has traditionally regarded with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Kebaya" pageants being very popular throughout the region and abroad.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Portret van een Europees kind in sarong en kabaja bij een koffiestruik TMnr 10023886.jpg|European child with sarong and kebaya, early 20th century
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Een Europese vrouw in sarong en kebaya bekijkt op de stoep van haar huis te Buitenzorg de vruchten van een fruitverkoper TMnr 10003029.jpg|European woman in sarong and kebaya, early 20th century
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Studioportret van Raden Tumenggung Sosronegoro met zijn echtgenote een dochter van de Sultan HB VI van Jogjakarta TMnr 60005079.jpg|Raden Tumenggung Sosronegoro with his wife, a daughter of the Sultan HB VI of [[Yogyakarta]] (c. 1860–1892)
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Drie dochters van sultan HB VI van Jogjakarta TMnr 60002137.jpg|Three daughters of Sultan HB VI of Yogyakarta, circa 1870
File:Bruneian women in traditional kebaya and sarong dress, Sandakan, British North Borneo, c 1920–1930s.jpg|Three [[Bruneian Malay people|Bruneian Malay]] women in traditional ''kebaya'' and ''[[sarong]]s'' in [[Sandakan District]], [[British North Borneo]], {{circa|1920s–1930s}}
File:Chitra Dewi, c. 1960, by Tati Studio.jpg|Indonesian movie star [[Chitra Dewi]] in kebaya (c. 1960)
File:Hartini Sukarno with Norodom Sihanouk and wife, Bung Karno Penjambung Lidah Rakjat 253.jpg|Hartini Sukarno in kebaya welcoming Cambodian royal couple [[Norodom Sihanouk|Sihanouk]] and [[Norodom Monineath|Monineath]] (1964)
File:Habibie-Ainun (cropped).jpg|[[Hasri Ainun Habibie|Ainun Habibie]], the late former Indonesian first lady in blue Javanese kebaya (1998)
File:Wulan Apriliani as Miss Sport Indonesia with kebaya Djoko Sasongko.jpg|Kebaya as national attire representing Indonesia in beauty pageant (2012)
File:Sinden Solo.jpg|A [[sindhen]] wearing kebaya in Javanese singing performance
File:Upacara Melasti.jpg|Balinese women wearing kebaya in [[Melasti]] ritual ceremony, a self-purification ceremony to welcome [[Nyepi]] by all Hindus in [[Bali]]
File:Gamelandegung.jpg|[[Sundanese people|Sundanese]] [[Gamelan]] musicians wearing kebaya from [[West Java]], [[Indonesia]]
File:Singapore Airlines Hostesses.JPG|A group of Singapore Airlines flight attendants. The colour of their sarong kebaya represents different ranks.
</gallery>
{{commons category-inline|Kebaya}}<br>
{{commons-inline|Tropenmuseum}}

==See also==
{{Portal|Clothing|Fashion|Indonesia|Malaysia}}
* [[National costume of Indonesia]]
* [[Culture of Indonesia]]
* [[Culture of Malaysia]]
* [[Culture of Singapore]]
* [[Culture of Thailand]]
* [[Javanese culture]]
* [[List of Intangible Cultural Heritage elements in Malaysia]]
* [[List of Intangible Cultural Heritage elements in Indonesia]]
* [[List of Intangible Cultural Heritage elements in Thailand]]
* ''[[Htaingmathein]]''

==Notes==
{{reflist|group=n}}

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==External links==
{{commons category|Kebaya}}
*[http://www.expat.or.id/info/traditionaltextiles.html Indonesian Textiles]
*[http://coombs.anu.edu.au/SpecialProj/ASAA/biennial-conference/2004/Cattoni-V-ASAA2004.pdf Reading The Kebaya] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070905165653/http://coombs.anu.edu.au/SpecialProj/ASAA/biennial-conference/2004/Cattoni-V-ASAA2004.pdf |date=2007-09-05 }}
*[http://gosocio.co.id/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia.html/ Variety Indonesian Kebaya] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141219062656/http://gosocio.co.id/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia.html |date=2014-12-19 }}

{{Indonesian clothing}}
{{Sri Lankan clothing}}
{{Folk costume}}
{{Indonesia topics}}

[[Category:Indonesian clothing]]
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]
[[Category:National symbols of Indonesia]]
[[Category:Javanese clothing]]